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Review - Gowings Bar & Grill

Does My Bomb Look Big In This?

Alex Harmon uncovers one of the new offerings in Sydney's QT hotel...

WEBQT_restaurant

Having stayed in the Gold Coast QT I had high expectations when I walked through the doors of the old Gowings building. Their Surfers hotel is like a Jetsons episode on acid. Sydney’s, however, takes a more sophisticated, New York City loft approach (how Sydney) and its restaurant is no exception.

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Robert Marchetti (of Neild Avenue and North Bondi Italian) created the menu, and it is big – in size and ambition.

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Waitresses, dressed like they’re going clubbing (seriously, one even had a handbag) are refreshingly friendly and helpful, which is good because the many different variations of bird, fish and steak can seem overwhelming.

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We commence with the signature entrée, the Beer Steamed Prawn Cocktail ($18), so over the top it could be a Mardi Gras float. Three Crystal Bay prawns are perched high upon a gigantic glass bowl over crushed ice and served with a gravy boat of wasabi and cognac seafood sauce and a ‘cocktail’ of shrimp and iceberg. Nanna’s recipe this is not.

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While it’s tasty, you’re better off with the Hot Spanner Crab Cakes ($19), cooked golden and packed with flavour.

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The main of Yellowfin Tuna ($44) was not pink like ordered but its heavenly, citrus topping of grape tomatoes, fennel and young coriander saved the day.

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They’ve perfected the Rib Eye ($44) (from the Darling Downs). It says it comes ‘with condiment’ but is so mouth-watering it needed nothing but a squeeze of the lemon it is actually served with.

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For dessert you may be tempted by the deconstructed apple crumble Apple Flavours ($19) but the Dark Chocolate Crème Brûlée ($14) with marinated cherries won my heart. Sometimes less is more; and although the QT is the Dubai of hotels, it is possible to go in and look beyond the shimmering lights and antique furniture and find her inner-beauty.

Gowings Bar & Grill
Level I, 49 Market Street, Sydney
Ph: (02) 8262 0062

Gowings Bar & Grill on Urbanspoon

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Comments

( 3 comments — Leave a comment )
badlywritten
Oct. 28th, 2012 11:16 pm (UTC)
you only get three prawns?

do they really cut your rib eye for you?
missdissent
Oct. 29th, 2012 02:47 am (UTC)
I suspect as she was reviewing, she was sharing everything, so often they'll cut it so it's easier to share. Yeah, the three prawns grabbed my attention too! Quite a pricy one!
FoodiePop
Oct. 29th, 2012 04:14 am (UTC)
Oh my, the steak looks mouthwatering.
( 3 comments — Leave a comment )