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Review - The Rook

Does My Bomb Look Big In This?

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Melbourne better watch out, because we’ve dominated the laneway bar, conquered the surreptitious speakeasy, and are rapidly expanding into some epic rooftops.

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Even better, you can take in all three within a five-minute walk of this new York Street entry. First you need to find it: enter through an otherwise unremarkable office block; ride a boring lift; then pop out onto an urban rooftop full of repurposed materials, graffiti and twinkling candlelight.

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There are cocktails, but spying the young Head Group Sommelier Sarah Limacher, I throw down a challenge: find me a wine that will suit both lobster and wagyu - the mainstays of this venue’s economical menu. The 2010 Te Mata Gamay Noir ($55) she suggests isn’t half bad!

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It makes the rich Wagyu Burger ($25) (we’re talking twenty percent back fat, nicely rendered) go down easy, without dominating my Half Lobster ($50).

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Heeding advice from the charming Group Executive Chef George Diamond, I take my lobster with citrus vinaigrette – the delicacy allows you to fully appreciate the succulent white flesh.

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While George is proud of the concrete-crisp Onion Rings ($10.50), I prefer the Truffle Fries ($9.50).

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Kudos to The Keystone Group for finding a way to make their new venues non-formulaic - the latest three* are all gems…

*Catch my reviews for The Newtown Hotel (forthcoming) and Sweethearts Rooftop BBQ by clicking on their names.

The Rook
Level 7, 56-58 York Street, Sydney
Ph: (02) 9262 2505


The Rook on Urbanspoon