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Review - Baccomatto Osteria

Does My Bomb Look Big In This?

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Ensconced near the windows, I’m barely able to suppress my grin as two Darlo designer-hipsters enter.

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With sharply cropped hair, asymmetric black clothing and post-Birkenstock footwear technology, they could have been lifted directly from Unhappy Hipsters.

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Their aesthetic is perfect for Mauro Marcucci’s new café-come-restaurant, a minimalist Mecca of smooth concrete, shiny metal and exposed soundproofing.

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By contrast the service is as warm as the afternoon sun, down to homey cross-strapped khaki aprons.

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Their wearers guide you through a simple menu of small-sized snacks, from boards of cured meats and cheeses to Zucchini Flowers ($4.50) and...

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...surprisingly delicate Salt Cod Croquettes ($4.50). They’re all in single serves, designed to appeal to the swathe of solo diners (the restaurant is located in the Cambridge Hotel).

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Regardless of the number in your party, you’re sure to enjoy Grilled Baby Calamari ($12) with wild roquette against a glass of 2011 Ca’Del Baio Chardonnay ($12).

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The wine will carry you through to a bowl of house-made Tonnarelli with Aged Pecorino Romano, Broad Beans and Black Pepper ($20); though if you choose the...

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...(slightly less compelling) Bombolotti with Local Guanciale and Pecorino di Fossa ($23) you may want to advance to red.

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Overall this is a welcome addition to an area consumed with artifice.

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Baccomatto Osteria
212 Riley Street, Surry Hills
Ph: (02) 9215 5140


Baccomatto Osteria on Urbanspoon

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