In a summer that broke numerous heat records, including a blistering Sydney day of 45.8 degrees, my favourite seasonal dish was Paul Cooper’s pretty Scallop Ceviche ($18).
Guaranteed to cool your core temperature, it soothes the mouth with avocado, cucumber and creamy scallop, then surprises with a shock of intense ginger beer sorbet.
Paul’s deft handling of cold dishes saw me revisit for Glacier 21 Toothfish Carpaccio ($18) with smoked clams, miso and apple.
He also manages to extract more flavour than most from his Spanner Crab Remoulade ($19), laid out like a garden on a patchwork quilt of watermelon prosciutto.
A fan of nose-to-tail eating, Paul also gets my tick of approval for his Corned Pork Jowl and Stuffed Tail Salad ($18), great against on-tap Trumer Pils ($7.50).
Heat made me skip mains in favour of bar snacks – the Beef and Bone Marrow Dumplings ($12.50/5) eat like inner city comfort food...
...whilst tasty Quail and Ginger Steamed Buns ($14/2) manage to fill out any remaining corners.
Savvy restaurateur Erez Gordon keeps customers-in-the-know revisiting with offers like Sip Shuck & Slide ($20) – the chance to eat five oysters and a New Orleans style fried oyster slider against a glass of Shadowfax Riesling.
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527 Crown St Surry Hills
Ph: (02) 8065 7223