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Review - Civilian Bar & Kitchen

Ryan Kennedy found some cheap cocktails in Darlinghurst this week...




Polished concrete, dark wood, bare light bulbs, and heavy slab tables— Civilian has a ready decor for inner-city cool.


Come on a Friday and the Passionfruit Sour ($17)—sweet, smoky with mescal, and topped with thick Italian meringue— is...



...a bargain at ten bucks, and comes with complimentary (and tremendously compelling) truffled popcorn.



Light share meals from new Head Chef Aaron Mihelic steal the show: the Herb Crumbed Hen’s Egg ($12) is a crisp and decadent pleasure, while...



...the generous serving of Hiramasa Kingfish Carpaccio ($16) with explosions of finger lime, orange soy and puffed wild rice, had me scouring the plate for missed morsels.



Creamy, briny Pemulwuy Oysters ($4/each) are also a refreshing treat, topped with celery, apple and lime granita.


Confit Pork Belly ($27.50) is as crisp, sticky and tender as it ought to be, but an (equally tender) Braised Lamb Shoulder ($26.50) gets a little lost in an overly complex dish.



All is forgiven after tasting the sides; warm cumin-spiced Fried Cauliflower ($10.50) earthy with hummus and freshened by yogurt, and goat’s cheese and pepita-spiked Roasted Pumpkin ($13).



For a sweet finish the Milk Caramel Chocolate Tart ($15) combines a lot of coffee-crunchy-banana elements in an artfully strewn mess, and somehow there isn’t a bad mouthful.

Did I mention the $10 cocktails?

Civilian Bar & Kitchen
248 Palmer Street, Darlinghurst
Ph: (02) 9361 4162



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