Take a jaunt around the Mediterranean in the cool, white surrounds of this mosaic tiled ice-breaker designed by Durbach Block architects, with Gaudi in mind.

Clean, fresh flavours and good technique shine from owner/chefs Brendan Vallejo and Scott Mason. My picks include the Grilled Sonoma Levain with Goat’s Cottage Cheese and Pistachio ($6).



I also loved the Organic Lentil, Roast Pumpkin, Cabbage, Yoghurt and Dill Salad ($14) made sweet and unctuous by pumpkin puree.



And who wouldn't like the soft plump pillows of Pecorino-enriched House-made Gnocchi with Italian Sausage and Sage ($20)?



I’ll join the list that simpers over the Portuguese Style Pork and Mussels ($29), it was easily my dish of the night. It’s nice to see the larger plates outperform the smaller plates for a change, too.



Wine buffs should dine on Wednesday/Thursday as Scott Turner plays in-house sommelier – his wine knowledge and passion for buying local, boutique wines had me enthralled. After a liberal sample, I’m certain he’s put together a great wine list; the 2009 Springvale Gewürztraminer ($12/glass, $56/bottle) is an Australian benchmark. Scott flexed his food-matching skills by pairing our Braised Goat Leg with Field Mushrooms in White Wine ($29) with a suave 2008 Cantine Pra Soave Classico Superiora ($13/glass) and the 2008 Jules Taylor Pinot Gris ($10.50/glass) for sweet relief.



I did try a couple of other dishes too in between the wine tastings... Spiced Chickpea Fritters ($6) were eclipsed by the smoky, spicy sauce, but I do recall them being pleasantly free of oil.



I also tried the Heirloom Tomato, House-made Ricotta and Cucumber Salad with Olives ($16) - it was a bit of a let down for me but I will admit to eating the best punnet of the freshest heirloom cherry tomatoes a few days earlier, so it could be just a hard comparison between them and these slightly more tired heirlooms.



And it seems this month is to be the month of not drinking tap water... I tried another expensive water at the behest of the bartender (as he thought the tap water would taint our wine). The Cape Grim Tasmanian Still Rain Water ($10) is possibly the nicest bottled water I have ever tried.

Blanco
5-9 Roslyn Street, Kings Cross
Ph: (02) 9332 3663

Sujet Saenkham’s spin-off restaurant eliminates the cramped surrounds and no reservations policy of the (justifiably) popular original.



Instead it’s elegant up-lighting, raw bricks, soft timbers and Thai-inspired cocktails, like the lovely Sixteen Degrees ($18) flavoured with kiwi fruit and the Longan Ice Tea ($16) with whole longans.



Staff are engaging; Coco in particular is preppy and pro-active, confidently recommending the 2008 Gregoris Pinot Grigio ($9/glass, $42/bottle) for a good food match. The Yum Pla Dib ($18), a Hiramasa kingfish carpaccio with clean, bright flavours and vibrant chilli, proves her right, whetting my appetite for more.



The Pad Pik King Moo Gob ($34) is a triumph of beautifully rendered pork belly pieces in a sticky chilli jam.



My dining companion mutters something about “bland food for bland people” at the suggestion of Pad Thai Goong ($30), but is floored by the dish itself.



Fresh and well presented, Sujet’s signature Pad Thai lets you create your own balance from mounds of chilli powder, nuts and white sugar; but I’ve found a better Yum Hua Plee Jay ($22) or banana flower salad elsewhere in Sydney.



I quite liked the moist, smoky duck in the Ped Yum Ma Muang ($20) though they admit it is bought in cooked, and then deep fried for crispness in this particular salad.



While the Khao Naew Ma Muang ($20) seems pricy for a dessert, the green sticky rice is a textural revelation against fresh nam dok mai mango and smoky coconut sauce.



It certainly eclipsed the Khao Naew Dum ($16) which I probably would have liked if I hadn't taken a mouthful of the grainy, green joy...



I usually shun expensive waters, but knowing the local supply, I did let the restaurant convince me I needed this expensive water, Antipodes Still ($10) - it's lovely.

Spice I Am, Darlinghurst
296-300 Victoria St, Darlinghurst
Ph: (02) 9332 2445

We managed to time our visit to Berry right for the once-a-month market (first Sunday) at the local showground. It was full of bric-a-brac, wonderful uses for barbed wire, cackling witches and of course some great local food. The plate above is the significant other's first set of shuck-your-own oysters. We got two dozen unshucked oysters for the humble sum of twenty dollars. They are from Greenwell Point and were lovely!



We used the locally grown large truss tomatoes, salad onions and basil in a salad with the rest of our cheese box... it went best with the Blu Mello.



I was already a fan of Disaster Bay Chipotle Sauce ($9), so I picked up some more. The clever sales lady told me to try the Chilli Wine Jelly ($9) with cheese on a cracker... it was amazing. We had it on oysters too, and it was lovely (though a fighting condiment with them) and I am told to try it on a croissant or toast...



This was another win - a 'vintage' Worcestershire Sauce ($5) which is made in Harden. The profile of it is so good in terms of negligable sugar that diabetics can use it too. The clever gentleman on the store had our regular brand (Lea & Perrins) to do a side-by-side comparison, and this new one won hands down!



I am also quite partial to the Berry's Famous Donut Van which has been doling out freshly cooked Doughnuts ($1 each, $5.50/6) for sixty years according to the cook. As you can see from my golden ring, they look the part. I can attest that they were very tasty too - so tasty in fact we returned for a second doughnut later in the day!

Now if some of these tasty foods catch your eye, you too can enjoy the bounty of the South Coast at the Shoalhaven Regional Food and Wine Show on the 9th-10th January, 2010 from 10am-5pm.



Summer turned it on for a lovely drive home up the coast, with a brief stop for lunch at the Headlands Hotel with the bikers (oh and my Mother).

The Big Scoop

Author: Jackie McMillan

Posted: Wednesday, 2 December 2009
Published: The City Hub

Last Saturday I joined a smaller-than-expected queue outside Australia’s first Ben & Jerry’s for their ‘12-Hour Scoop-A-Thon’. Surrounded by fake cows and eager families, I felt conflicted; we had to decide on a flavour before entering the store. I chose Phish Food on the advice of an experienced consumer: “You’ve got to be careful; the ones that sound really good are too rich.”



One super-sweet scoop later, the horizon disappeared as a haze descended on Manly. The queue had mostly dissipated. With the temperature already in the high twenties, most people seemed more interested in swimming. Flyer-wielding Ben & Jerry’s staff did their best – peace, love and free ice-cream for all.





Catharine Munro wrote in SMH’s Good Living: “Ben & Jerry’s feel-good flavour has come to our shores.” She’s not the only one touting the feel-good vibe. A Current Affair’s Kirstine Lumb was also on the bandwagon: “It really is the ultimate guilt-free ice-cream isn’t it?”



Am I only the one who finds transporting ice cream across the Pacific ludicrous? We make it here. Sure I’m chuffed they’re offsetting their (massive) carbon footprint, but perhaps they could try not making one in the first place? Of course it’s just for a few years while the actual owners of Ben & Jerry’s, Unilever, assess the worth of establishing regional headquarters.

That’s right folks, the feel-good founders Ben Cohen and Jerry Greenfield were bought out nearly ten years ago. These days they’re more like mascots, trotted out to cut a ribbon and announce the new ‘Australian’ flavour name – Peanut Cookie-Burra Dough. So let’s talk about Unilever instead.

Nick Ray is part of the Ethical Consumer Group; they make a booklet designed to assist Australian consumers make more sustainable purchasing choices. In their guide Nick says: “Unilever receive a cross due to criticisms related to animal testing.” Their Australasian products are not tested on animals but they are a global company, and “the European Union has this year just phased out all testing… on animals… It began the process in 2003.” Nick points out, we’re talking about one of the world’s largest corporations with “annual sales of approximately $54.4 billion in 2004” and an equally “huge responsibility to be leaders” when many smaller companies have managed to phase out animal testing entirely!

The Ben & Jerry’s ingredient list also poses a few problems for the ethical consumer. First there’s high-fructose corn syrup, the dominant U.S. sweetener. University of Florida researchers have linked it to obesity. There are healthier and greener alternatives; sugar is better for you.

There’s also palm oil, linked to rainforest destruction, climate change and the likely extinction of Orang-utans within twenty years. The Palm Oil Action Group www.palmoilaction.org.au are fighting for compulsory labelling so we can make informed decisions, but as Greenpeace’s Sue Connor warns, the palm oil industry is already out of control: “There’s no way for the end user to know whether the oil comes from destructive sources or not… None of the oil is segregated by traders.”



In a small Leichhardt premises Pat & Stick’s are a two-man operation turning out excellent ice-cream sandwiches. I liked their Expresso Lace better than my scoop of Ben & Jerry’s; it’s made with sugar. Pat handed me a well-thumbed book: “We started off reading Ben and Jerry’s story… They just wanted to make something that everyone enjoyed. They did it for a lot of years. They’re inspirational.” Imagine how he felt when one of his stockists was asked by Unilever representatives to replace their Pat and Stick’s freezer with a Ben & Jerry’s one.

Back in the day, the Ben and Jerry’s Homemade Ice Cream and Dessert Book explains that they too were the victim of nasty corporate tactics, “we knew a little company with twenty-three employees could not hold its own against a company with annual sales of four billion dollars…” They rallied behind: ‘What’s the Doughboy Afraid Of?’



Now the shoe’s on the other foot. The founders were recently spotted taking notes in Gelato Messina, home of Sydney’s best gelato (according to the 2009 SMH’s Foodies’ Guide). Are Ben & Jerry’s afraid of Nick Palumbo? I hear his new Pecan Pie flavour is outrageously good! Nick says: “While Ben & Jerry’s is undoubtedly king of the mass market ice-cream world, ultimately it is still a mass produced product made by machines in an automated factory… My product is boutique – all handmade, every day, tub by tub… using fresh produce purchased from local producers.”

Underneath the mainstream media’s feel-good ‘hippy capitalist’ stories, I found a buyout that has (at best) diluted the core ethical practices that Ben & Jerry’s began with. They’re a corporate giant using ingredients that don’t feel good.

One glance at the menu and you’d be forgiven for thinking that Pino Nocera just delivers ordinary Italian classics.



After you cut into your huge, puffy Calzone Pulcinella ($22.90) revealing creamy white contents wrapped in tasty, chewy dough topped by fresh tomato and shaved Parmesan, you’ll be a convert. A neighbouring lady diner seemed daunted by hers but recovered to pose open-mouthed before it, quipping to her male companion: “I’m that good!” Ah sex in the città!



She can be excused - al fresco tables under the faux grape vines are romantic, and the handsome, muscular wait staff ooze Italian charm and speak the mother tongue. So do many of the patrons.



Pino’s son Luigi stands out on the floor with five-star experience, coaxing us into a (regular) special of Fettuccini Lobster ($31.90) with a good bisque-like sauce evenly coating every al dente strand. (Think Napoletana with cream, brandy and lobster bisque... simple and lovely!)



The popular Eye Fillet ($31.90) is almost eclipsed by the accompanying pepper sauce, so good it turns all other items on my plate into vehicles for delivering more creamy, peppery goodness!



There’s a lot of time in the detailed explanations on the Italian wine list. We opted for an inexpensive Fazio Montélimo Nero D'Avola Merlot ($26.90) - a fruity, easy companion to our food and the hot night.



I was also sent a plate of meatballs - they're house made, and incredibly tasty, set off by a simple tomato sauce. I eyed off a vegetarian pizza called Funghi Rucola ($17.90) delivered to another table too, almost hidden under a garden of springy leaves.

If you need another reason to do an all-you-can-eat special from Sunday to Thursday on pasta and pizza called Pizza & Pasta Birra for $22.90 per head, it even includes a glass or wine or a beer.

Spigolo
60 Riley Street, Darlinghurst
Ph: (02) 9356 3288

Let’s not mince words - Pierre Gobert’s macarons are excellent. Cafe Gourmand ($10) gives you a coffee and three ‘flavours of the day’ – I’m yet to strike a bad flavour.

Debonair Head Pastry Chef Pierre Gobert gave generously of his time during my recent grilling, but he does have more time than he used to! The shiny new Baroque Bistro Patisserie kitchen is equipped with a ‘depositor’ to lay out his little lids in two hours instead of nine hand-piping hours! This leaves him with more time to come up with exciting new parfums (flavours).

After a liberal sampling, I can attest that Pierre’s macarons have an extraordinary depth of flavour. He makes the jasmine beauties from brewed jasmine tea! They transported me to my childhood - a hot summer night when the creeping waft of jasmine heralded the arrival of the southerly that would eventually cool us to sleep. It’s lucky you can buy them in boxes ($10 / 100g gives you four) because I was also captivated by both Olive Oil and Vanilla, and Salted Caramel as well. Pierre alluded to a “lemon explosion” in future months - my mouth already waters in anticipation.

Now the important stuff is out of the way; the heritage space had been kept nicely raw, accented with gleaming rose copper and expensive foreign (Italian) chairs you can see right through!



Behind the pans, Yann Fontaine (ex-Bilson’s) makes quality French bistro-style (fast) food. If that’s not enough, the handsome French waiters decked out in hand-made aprons should seal the deal – highly recommended for the ‘ladies who lunch’ set!



Married me settles for Baked Eggs with Porcini Cream and Toasted Baguette ($13) – who knew it could be an entree as well as breakfast? (The last time I had baked eggs in a restaurant I was at Thomas Keller's Bouchon in Las Vegas...)



If you’re not partial to butter and cream (and why not?) the Snail and Asparagus Salad ($13) is lovely and bright, with orange segments and a bed of baby spinach.

The wine list reads like a list of my all-time favourites. If you like to drink local, go the 2008 Crawford River ‘Young Vines’ Riesling ($10/glass, $42/bottle) or the 2009 Spring Vale Chardonnay ($9/glass, $39/bottle). If you’re partial to the foreign stuff, the 2008 Daniel Dampt Chablis ($14/glass, $64/bottle) is also lovely.

Baroque Bistro Patisserie
88 George Street, The Rocks
Ph: (02) 9241 4811

Dumplings are about precision; perhaps that’s why an international chain does ‘em best.



First thing each day temperature and humidity readings are taken to calculate the perfect dough formula.



Each masked, white-clad, member of the dumpling chain gang uses gold scales (accurate to 0.01) to ensure uniformity... and while I was in the kitchen a whole lot of measuring took place.



Inexperienced staff compare their rolled out dough to plastic guides, and the pleater needs to put a minimum of eighteen pinched folds on to close each dumpling.



Daily staff tastings happen with enough time to correct the dough. The vegetarian dumpling mix caught my eye with lovely diced shitake mushrooms, they're pleated in a different way.



Dumplings are made to order (no circulating trolleys), the silky pleated perfection of the Crab Meat, Roe & Pork Dumplings ($15.80/6 pieces) shows why; the signature Pork Dumplings ($8.80/6 pieces) are damned fine too.



Avoid dumpling overload with a Vegetarian Delight ($3.80) dried tofu, seaweed and glass noodles in sesame.



I'd throw in a refreshing Lychee and Mint Juice ($6.00) too; it managed to be very minty without losing the lychees.



Move on to excellent Pork and Prawn Wontons in Spicy Sauce ($8.80/6 pieces).



You can try a Pork Bun ($2.80) if you save room for an even better dessert...



... a Steamed Black Sesame Bun ($2.80).



Deep fried only gets a menu look-in with...



...divine Golden Red Bean Bread ($5.80/2 pieces).



You will appreciate the sparkling clean, non-intimidating surrounds;



...the nicely lacquered picture menus; attentive, impeccably dressed staff...



...and the concise guide to dipping, stabbing, slurping and swallowing your way to dumpling heaven (if you're a novice).



There's even a two hour parking voucher on offer for the carpark under the restaurant when you dine on week nights or weekends if you make a fifty dollar spend on the table. Oh and if you have problems with dumplings sticking at home, apparently white muslin is the best solution.

Din Tai Fung
Level 1, World Square Shopping Centre, 644 George Street, Sydney
Ph: (02) 9264 6010

This recently reborn space will speak to those who have a penchant for the cuisines of Central Europe. Climb the stairs from Norton Street and leave behind the buzz of ‘Little Italy’ for a (much needed) cultural interloper.



I must not be the only one who thinks so because as I enjoyed my lunch on the wide, covered balcony, I noticed staff from the neighbourhood’s community bank also taking advantage of the very reasonable prices.



With Sasha Alexsander (Taste of Brazil) in charge of the menu, you’d be right to assume that grilled meat will be well handled. The tender lumps of skewered lamb Raznjici ($19) were indeed a highlight. On the right of my image is a small serve of the Musaka ($16.50) which was nicely different from Greek versions I have tried; while in the centre is a tasting portion of Cevapcici ($19) which are home-made skinless sausages.



More surprising was the bowl of Mushroom Dumplings ($8.50) so tasty they are only topped with a blob of sour cream and a sprinkle of lightly charred onion.



The Balkan Antipasta Platter ($12.50) includes bread, a selection of home-made dips, salads and tasty lean cevapcici (skinless sausage); so it’s an excellent option if you like grazing.



Balance is important to this cuisine, so throw in a refreshingly simple Cabbage Salad ($4.50/small) regardless.



If you like your salads a bit richer, the cheese-laden Shopska Salad ($6.50) is also great. To drink select from exclusive on tap beers like Hoegaarden, Asahi or Fat Yak ($4-$6.50); or wines including a decent Cape Campbell Pinot Gris ($8/glass, $45/bottle).

The Balkan Grill
The Zoo Bar, Level 1, 55 Norton Street, Leichhardt
Ph: (02) 9564 177

The Happy Sheep vs The Corporate Giants

Author: Jackie McMillan

Posted: Wednesday, 25 November 2009
Published: Inner West Independent

So you’ve been buying your organic meats from your local ‘farmers’ market’ for some time now; and you speak fondly of your interaction with the primary producers you uncover. If you’re like me, you’d probably only go to the corporate giants Coles and Woolworths for non-food items in an emergency. Are you ready to take the next step?

Nearly three thousand people have already signed up on Facebook as participants for a month-long national boycott of the big two starting on the 1st December, 2009. After a visit from Tim Woods of Wellington Farm Lamb, I am even more determined to join them.

Sustainability is more than just a buzz word on his 1200 acre farm in Wellington, Central Western NSW. It has to be, because his farm has been in drought since 2002. To do right by his flock he has reduced their numbers, introduced a native, drought tolerant saltbush which the sheep enjoy, and eliminated the middle man by selling their meat directly to people like me.
Grazing fewer animals means Tim can have ninety days between sheep being on the same paddock, so he no longer needs to drench the sheep for worms – this is enhanced by them grazing upwards onto shrubs. He’s not using antibiotics because his sheep are pasture-raised. Since he stopped spraying for weeds five years ago, he found his animals eat them in moderation to balance their own guts.

My freezer overflows with half a lamb that he drove into town personally on his delivery rounds. All I can say is that in my experience, the saltbush-enhanced flavour of his lamb is unmatched by other Australian lamb producers. I can also tell you that one of the reasons Tim changed his farming methods was informed by the way that the big two change farming practice (for the worse) by dictating uniformity, right down to how thick the fat must be on a leg of lamb. The best way to produce what the corporate giants want is in a feed lot. Up the road from Tim’s farm that’s just what he’s seen. No grass, just dirt, and when it rains, those sheep stand in mud. That is not how Tim wants to farm.

Tim can offer something that the big two cannot – firstly there are the photos of his fat, (there’s been a bit of rain, he tells me) happy sheep gambolling contentedly on grass. He will also bring you half a lamb that was on pasture seven days ago, hung whole for five days, cut to your specifications by a country butcher, and vacuum packed for freshness. For your $150 you eat 7-9 kilos of lamb, plus a bonus kilo of sausages and a kilo of the leanest premium lamb mince I’ve tried. You also get the knowledge that your money is spent furthering sustainable farming practices – making happy sheep. They really do taste better.

If you don’t have time to broker your own relationships with sustainable, ethical farmers like Tim Wood, there is another option. Feather and Bone is a wonderful boutique business run by a dedicated couple, Grant and Laura Hilliard. They deliver provenance guaranteed meat, eggs and assorted other items to your door. They only buy whole carcasses, often from rare breed farms located within NSW. Not only do they reduce food miles, they also slow the worrying decrease in genetic diversity that results from large-scale commercial farming. I use them myself – just not for lamb.

Finally, if happy sheep alone aren’t enough to sway you, Independent Senator Nick Xenophon explains that when you spend dollars at Woolworths you are also supporting Australia’s biggest poker machine operator with somewhere in the vicinity of eleven thousand machines. In his words, “something is very rotten with the fresh food people.”

Wellington Farm Lamb www.wellingtonlamb.com.au
Feather and Bone www.featherandbone.com.au

This restaurant is a floor above and a cut above the standard Bondi Beach fare. The new Brutalist bare concrete bar with orderly rows of bottles and low lighting makes the recently launched wine bar a stylish and enticing place to peruse the chalkboard tapas menu.



Be seduced by the cool baby blues and resort-style lounges on the spacious sheltered balcony. Ponder the panoramic view with a glass of Fantinel Extra Dry Proscecco ($9) in your hand.



It is well matched with Seared Tuna Spoons with Tomato Salsa and Salmon Caviar ($12/4 pieces).



Move into the restaurant for Grilled Sea Scallops with Roasted Peppers, Tomato and Goats’ Cheese ($18), an unusual but accessible pairing with colourful presentation – it’s the kind of dish you want to be eating by the sea.



The mains I tried still had lipstick traces of winter’s cool kiss upon them. The 10 Spice Roast Duck with Apple Salad, Chestnuts and Celeriac Puree ($32) was tasty and nicely matched to an inexpensive import – the 2007 Louise Bernard Cotes du Rhone ($8/glass, $35/bottle).



Even more to my taste was the Double Lamb Loin Cutlets with Horseradish Crust, Golden Shallots and Beetroot ($36).



But the winning dish for this pleasant evening came in the form of a summery White Chocolate and Coconut Panna Cotta ($15) with glazed strawberries and a bright passion fruit sorbet.

I have dined a number of times at this restaurant, and while it may fall short of amazing, it never fails to do a decent job. It is not an inexpensive restaurant, but the view's so good it might just be worth paying for.

You can see my previous visits HERE (February 2009) and HERE (June 2008).

Ravesi's
118 Campbell Parade, Bondi Beach
Ph: (02) 9365 4422

This bright and airy cafe/restaurant has a nicely shielded (non-smoking) outdoor setting – a virtual oasis from the ravages of the Pacific Highway.



It’s a surprising find, located in the modern Urban Hotel across the road from the Royal North Shore Hospital. Their location informs their practice in a number of ways - relatives of seriously ill patients are particularly well looked after by the hotel - and the cuisine of Canadian Head Chef Christopher Shannon is healthy, produce-driven and (refreshingly) not too fancy.



General Manager Amanda Cottome explains that Shannon’s responsible for sourcing the locally produced chook; laughingly adding: “You know chefs!” His moist Prosciutto Wrapped Chicken Breast ($29) makes me very glad they let him.



His aesthetic Panzanella Salad ($16) sings with vibrant tomatoes and chewy (Brasserie Bread) sourdough croutons.



A crunchy Herb Crusted Barramundi ($29) makes for a stylishly simple dinner;  the fish is set off by crunchy asparagus.



Good technique also shines in the texture of the delightfully simple Vanilla Bean Panna Cotta ($12).



My chocophobic dining companion eschews my Chocolate Caramel Tart ($12) but is dedicated in stealing segments of the great pastry shell.

The conference set will enjoy modern facilities and decent wine prices; I favoured the elegant 2006 St. Hillary Chardonnay ($8.50/glass, $43/bottle).

Sure Café
194 Pacific Highway, St Leonards
Ph: (02) 8436 8908

In the genteel surrounds of a quiet Annandale back street overlooking a peaceful, sunny vista, Rod Jones has opened the hip, local cafe of my dreams. The old general store is charmingly refitted. Rod’s poured his heart, soul (and considerable collection of antiques) into the newly-vibrant neighbourhood space, and it’s a fitting successor to his earlier (ever-popular) Cafe Niki in Surry Hills.



Young Head Chef Rebecca Chippington earned her place in the kitchen by winning a muffin bake-off. I hang my head in shame as I confess to skipping her baked goods in favour of Rod’s Mum’s Choccy Melting Moment ($3.50) - absolutely sublime.



I did check out Rebecca’s superb, gently cooked ‘six day old’ Scrambled Eggs with Avocado, Slow-Roasted Tomato and Fetta Salsa ($12);



and her lean and lovely Ultimate Cheeseburger with Dijonaise Potato Salad ($14).



An unlikely winner for me was the House-Made Granola ($9.50) with seasonal fruit, an orange reduction and awesome Evia gelatine-free yoghurt.



Lubricate your smile with well-made Morgan’s Coffee ($3.20),



spot-on hand-squeezed Juices ($3) or their own house-blended teas.



Carnival ($4) with papaya and coconut is my favourite.



I returned (with a modicum of embarrassment) the very next day for more yoghurt with rustic Ricotta Hotcakes and Berry Compote ($10.50).



Over the course of my visits I may have also tried a tasting portion of their Asian-Style Pork Salad ($14.50)...



...and eaten half of one of Bec's Awesome Ham Cheese Tomato Pan Toastie ($10). It really was awesome; and so is the produce they use. I feel the need to become a regular.

Revolver
291 Annandale Street, Annandale
Ph: (02) 9555 4727

‘Glamorous’ designer Yasumichi Morita has created a wood-wind cathedral of quivering Javanese wood batons inside this recently renovated space...



...but using your frosty cocktail glass as a make-shift snow dome over the Sydney Opera House is priceless.



Contemporary tradition meanders across the updated menu of Executive Chef Raita Noda. Start with the playfully tactile Chotto Collection ($23) of five tasty bar snacks including a curry pan and a mini cornet of marinated blue-fin tartare.



The memorable Sake Jelly Bar Cod ($21) drips umami as you unwrap smoky ribbons of konbu to reveal silky seared cod.



Our experienced server Iva Jezkova gently but firmly steers us towards the creative cubes and uniquely salted spoons of the Tuna Creation ($23) with a wonderfully confusing glass of the 2007 Chateau Riotor Rose ($11/glass, $58/bottle). She wins on both counts – the interactive dish has great palate length but isn’t built for sharing; while the salmon-pink wine contrasts sweet strawberries with reassuring dryness.



Lashing out on a Peppercorn Lobster ($19/100g, average weight 600-800g) proves a salty yet satisfying experience.



A steaming Ocean Trout Pot ($37) provides even more table theatrics plus a complex yet creamy foil to the extracted hunks of salty-sweet lobster. Chortling Japanese businessmen are also entertaining and entertained by the cuisine.



Sated and smiling I venture into the night, but not before we balance the salt with a sweet finale - this is the Apple Abstract ($17).



I also tried the Japanese inspired Petit Fours ($12). They won me on the savoury courses this time, well and truly. 

This is my third visit to this restaurant. You can read about my other visits HERE and even more recently HERE.

Ocean Room
Bay 4, Ground Level, Overseas Passenger Terminal, George Street, The Rocks
Ph: (02) 9252 9585

Plentiful alcohol, women and fantasy themeing in Kings Cross usually means one thing - but at this iconic venue (dating back to 1979) you’re more likely to find the Queen of Hearts bearing a flaming Bombé Alaska, strange hats, group singing and a surprisingly good meal.



Sparkling La Vie Pinot Noir Chardonnay ($38) will help lubricate your all-important hat/wig/prop selection from the well-decorated walls. My dining companions took the time to assess a range of head-wear, all documented on camera; they were not the only ones doing this!



As you enjoy your selected entree from a list of six  - the Chicken Liver Parfait with Roast Honey Figs in particular is great – you are entertained at the table by a roaming magician and the elegant (and nicely made-up) hostess Prada Clutch.



Prada divulges she is one of Sydney’s “three singing drag queens” before ripping into a saucy version of Big Spender.



The crowd adores her, demanding an encore as I try a cheesy Twice Cooked Four Cheese Soufflé.



I am less excited by an entree of Grilled White Asparagus with Baby Beetroot, Rocket, Mint and Carrot Reduction, but rest assured, it's just unexciting as opposed to unpleasant.



For mains I favoured Roast Veal with Porcini Mushroom Gratin with a very orderly smear of beetroot glaze over...



...the nicely cooked Lemon and Dill Crusted Salmon Fillet (though I like the frothy citrus sabayon that almost encircles it).



The only failure was a slightly pedestrian (and a shade overcooked) vegetarian main of Gnocchi with Roast Pumpkin, Fresh Sage and Creamy Tomato and White Wine Sauce. It was however very accessible.



Bread, salad and a well-cooked bowl of vegetables fill out any corners, and when you consider the price - $59.50/head or $93.50/head with unlimited alcohol - it's a very generous menu!



As we finish our lovely 2007 Daniel Dampt Chablis ($55) the whole restaurant is up, dancing with joyous abandon. Grinning staff expertly sidestep as they clear plates; it’s all refreshingly attitude-free.



With each group booking, the hen, birthday boy/girl, or person who books gets a bit of a special treat - lights are dimmed and a Bombé Alaska is brought out, with a long pour of flaming alcohol added at the table before it is whisked away to be dished up for your party. When it is your table's turn, they play a selected song, and as your guests know it's their song, much hilarious dancing and singing occurs. I couldn't help but smile.

My smaller group selected dessert from a 'Lick Me' menu. The best dessert was this Gingerbread Creme Brulee with Muscat Poached Strawberry and Almond Foam.



The Milk Chocolate Fondant was nicely matched with poached rhubarb, rhubarb syrup and raspberry cream, but the pudding itself was a shade dry.



To be different I tried a Grand Marnier Macerated Berry Trifle with Eggnog - a very christmassy combination - I suppose that season is rapidly approaching.

I had much more fun than I had expected, and even my bemused guests seemed taken with the place. We concluded that we'd have never got here any other way, but we were glad it happened. I have a naughty urge to take my partner's and my family there for our next shindig... it'd be funny to see them deal.

Tharen’s
13-15 Kellett Way, Kings Cross
Ph: (02) 9326 9510

 

Perhaps the Malay tiger has been tamed a little too far at this cheap, cheerful entry from Samsudin Yunus (Sam Satay). The Eggplant Sambal ($10) failed to raise even a bead of sweat, but the silky wedges of eggplant were pleasurable anyway.



In contrast, the Penang Laksa ($12) was sour and fishy enough to scare away the unfamiliar. Forewarned is forearmed though, and the concerned staff were emphatic: “You won’t like this.” The Nasi Ayam ($12) was an inexpensive complete meal of chicken, great chicken rice and a bowl of chicken broth. The rice I'd order again.



Among the success stories were Abang Sam’s Famous Satay Sticks ($9 / 6 pieces) accompanied by a good peanut sauce, cucumber, onion and neat little squares of compressed rice.



Another success was the rich and complex Rendang Daging ($14) with falling apart hunks of beef.



My love of roti has almost become a fetish, so believe me when I tell you that they’re good here. I would order Roti Canai ($9/2 piece) which is best with the chicken curry dipping sauce (above) over the bland dhal (below).



While the pink and purple lighting are eye-catching from outside, inside there is a function centre feel – but as the name suggests, you’re welcome to bring the kids. My dining companion was a (discreetly) nursing mother, and the staff were warm and keen to see her new baby.



They’ll probably want an Ais Kacang ($6) because it looks like a shave-ice; it’s surprisingly complex within from palm seed, crushed corn kernels, grass jelly, red beans and brown sugar syrup.

Abang Sam Malaysian Family Restaurant
Shop 1, 214 Anzac Parade, Kensington
Ph: (02) 9662 6554

We tried out our first Home Degustation last night. The theory was, people either contributed $50 toward food costs, or a shared a talent or skill in lieu of cash. Guests were also given a wine varietal to bring along a bottle which matched a particular course. While we knew everyone, not many of the guests knew each other - they all came from different aspects of our lives. The significant other did an admirable job in the kitchen, and the guests brought some STELLAR wines, giving each person a great tasting selection with the 9 course feast.



We started with a welcoming cocktail, on this occasion we invented a Rhubarb & Cherry Bellini which was lovely, and admired by many. To get the ball rolling our amuse bouche was a Broccoli Veloute with White Truffle Oil, Grana Padano, Chives & Dill.

So this isn’t the cheapest pub bistro in Balmain – it’s also far from the most expensive.



I’ll admit to being won over by the outstanding value Sunday Seafood Platter ($49.50) which provides two people with a considerable feast: half a Western Australian lobster in Mornay, excellent chilli octopus, oysters au natural, garlic prawns, crumbed calamari and nicely beer-battered fish with chips and salad.



It went well with a bottle of 2007 Josef Chromy ‘Pepik’ Chardonnay ($35), which aided our 'philosophical conversation' no end.



Another good match came from a special of Pipsqueak Cider with Steamed Tasmanian Mussels ($22). While I appreciated the toasted Turkish for mopping up the pot of bacon, cider, cream and herbs, I did want for a couple more briny, black mussels – but perhaps I just wanted to draw out my riveting dining situation?



Tables 30, 31 and 32 are situated right at the kitchen pass where the food comes up, creating a quasi-chef’s table setting.



I smiled to hear ‘the customer is always right’ ring out from Sous Chef Peter Hlebnikov in the Panopticon kitchen.



There’s a rather pervy portal on the other side, and a salad bar to look through, as well as our tables on the pass. Hard to hide anything in there!



He ran a warm and encouraging ship behind a well-placed row of chefly tomes;



...and the cooking surpassed my (outdated) pub bistro expectations.



Finally, if you're less fascinated by a bustling kitchen pass than I am, there are plenty of other areas in the hotel in which to dine.



On the left you can see a room that seemed quite family friendly, and on the right is the upstairs smoking terrace.



I even spied a curious lounge room you can be in when you're not in your actual lounge room setting that appealed to my quirkier side. With more pub visits like this one, I will make great inroads into my pub aversion. Shock therapy works!

The Royal Oak Hotel & Restaurant
36 College Street, Balmain
Ph: (02) 9810 2311

I returned to Rozelle’s gastro-pub hero to try the cuisine of current head chef, Leigh McDivitt; and if you haven’t been back recently, you probably should too. My smile began with an amuse bouche of Sweetcorn Soup with Basil Oil - really outstanding, and definitely the standout of the sweetcorn soup category for me thus far.



I was also pretty impressed with the stand-out Sommelier (and Restaurant Manager) Nicholas Luhman who triangulated from two people's (differing) personal preferences a superb wine in the Central Otago 2007 Rippon Riesling ($55). It matched our entrees rather well too! And it doesn’t get much better than the Rabbit, Chestnut and Foie Gras Terrine ($23)...



That is until you try the Seared Scallops with Morcilla, Chorizo, Truffled White Bean Puree and Coriander ($22). Both the produce and the cooking helped make this the best scallop dish I’ve had so far this year. Look at 'em fat, golden beauties, so succulent and moist inside!



Eye-catching plating in mains like the Thirlmere Duck Breast with Lentils, Beetroot, Parsnip, Orange and Pistachio ($38)...



...and the Pan Roasted John Dory with Squid Ink and Lemon Gnocchi, Confit Cuttlefish and Shellfish Bisque ($34) reminded me of Thomas Johns’ now defunct Pello, where McDivitt spent some time in the kitchen. My only quibble would be their high level of salt and the way portion sizes feel inadequate unless you order three courses plus sides.



However, our decadent side of Truffle and Parmesan Potato Puree ($10) lived up to our server’s enticement: “It’s the naughtiest thing, especially when you eat it on bread rolls at 11pm at night!” That was gobbled up so quickly you'll have to suffice with a photo of our half-side of Green Beans with Preserved Lemons and Almonds ($8/ full serve) which was also quite delicious.

All up the meal was pricey, but certainly very memorable - I predict I will return.

The Restaurant at 3 Weeds
197 Evans Street, Rozelle
Ph: (02) 9818 2788

 

New owners and a fresh lick of paint have revitalised this neighbourhood space in the busy Rozelle shopping strip, just a hop, skip and a jump from the weekend arts and crafts market.



In the kitchen Cissy Azar’s modernised menu shows influence from her time at Simmone Logue’s in Balmain. High quality soft wraps make her massive Breakfast Wrap ($13.50), filled with bacon, moist scrambled eggs, haloumi, rocket and onion jam, a winner.



A Zucchini Fritter Stack ($15) (pictured here with optional bacon $3 extra) is also tasty, mostly due to the house-made tomato relish.



All day breakfast makes night owls like me very happy - and in my book it’s always the right time for Vanilla French Toast ($13.50) with fresh strawberries, bananas, cream and your own mini bottle of maple syrup to drown at whim.



A healthier option from the daily lunch specials was the pleasant Lamb Backstrap ($18) with a light herb and macadamia crust, and hand-cut oven baked chips.



Over the course of two visits, I tried the Belaroma Coffee in a well made Latte ($3) and a robust Iced Coffee ($4.50). The robustness was my fault for skipping the cream in favour of only ice-cream, so be a devil and have them both!



I liked the framed film and gig posters decorating the walls, they make a nice point of interest for a solo diner to examine while they wait for their meal. I loved that the cafe has a word and city of the day - on my first visit, these were "entropy" and "Laolao" respectively. On my second visit, my companion gave them a word for a future day: anarcho-syndicalist. They were delighted.

The Coffee Bean
612 Darling Street, Rozelle
Ph: (02) 9818 1607

Walking along Oxford Street with a powerful thirst, I was tempted back here by an another easy-drinking jug of Margaritas Espana ($35/carafe). The delightful citrus-vanilla flavour comes courtesy of Licor 43 and complements a well-presented Scallop and Prawn Stuffed Piquillo Pepper ($5/piece) rather nicely.

I recall from a previous visit (HERE) that the Jamon Bread ($5) – grilled, garlic-rubbed Sonoma sourdough topped with rocket and jamon - is also a great drinking companion.



The regularly changing specials board produces a generous bowl of nicely cooked Steamed Mussels ($12) with tomato, white wine, saffron and coriander; it could only be improved by a little bread to enjoy the briny liquid.



An interesting Chickpea Salad ($14) with grilled peppers, Manchego, cucumber, mint and onion proves to be a compelling and plentiful foil to the Char Grilled Angus Beef ($20) served with a green Chimichurri sauce.



Keep an eye out for the seasonal Padrón peppers, served up last season with Hummus, Spiced Ground Lamb and Olive Sourdough ($12). Walk-up diners are welcomed in, though often to stool-style seating. After a few selections from their cocktail and wine list (which includes offerings from Argentina, Chile and Spain) you probably won’t care where you’re sitting.

Cantina Bar & Grill
245 Oxford Street, Darlinghurst
Ph: (02) 9357 3033