I promised a review without duck, and here it is - Hugo’s Bar Pizza. Our evening started with me sipping on a pale, smooth and gentle (yet devilishly alcoholic) Hugo’s Iced Tea ($17) on a early spring evening in the comfort of a cosy, well padded, al fresco leather booth. This is the good life – but you’ll pay for it.
A flight of stairs up from the hustle and bustle of Bayswater Road, the space glows pale jade from the back-lit marble bar, and hums with the voices of the mostly under-forty crowd and upbeat, ambient house. It’s popular, and you can’t reserve a table, but Restaurant Manager Charlie Wong will make sure your wait is pleasant. Perhaps like myself you might need a Lady Hendrick’s ($17)? It was an easy drinking elderflower flavoured martini, and behind it you can see their Hugo’s Iced Tea ($17).
A Tasting Plate ($38) showed tender, moreish calamari, sweet Yamba prawns, an okay salmon carpaccio and very tasty meatballs. It was plenty of food to share.
But the sublime moment came in the form of an Asparagus Pizza ($26). The scent of truffle oil heralded its arrival with a perfectly cooked egg in the centre, walnuts, goats curd, garlic and parmesan. This really was one of the best pizzas I have had to date, I loved the topping particularly. The base was good on the first slice while the pizza was hot, but did tend towards being a shade biscuit-like as it cooled.
The Pork Belly Pizza ($26) also impressed particularly the contrast of bitter radicchio and sweet and sour onions. There is plenty to see on the wine list too, with Italian wines being well represented – try the 2006 Fattori Soave Classico ($52/bottle, $11/glass) it suits the cuisine.
Hugo’s Bar Pizza
33 Bayswater Road, Kings Cross
Ph: (02) 9357 4411