January 20th, 2010

Does My Bomb Look Big In This?

Review - Ormeggio At The Spit


Get plenty of time on your parking ticket before ambling between two rows of dazzling boats to the water-side land of the long, lazy lunch.



The aroma of Chef Alessandro Pavoni’s Spiedo Alla Bresciano ($44/head, 10 people) will tempt you with butter, sage, quail, pork, chicken and rabbit long before the five hours of rotisserie cooking are done.



It’s a corker of a dish, particularly when eaten over chef’s compelling Storo polenta.



Now if you can’t rustle up a table of ten, embark on the Flavours of Lombardy Degustation ($85/head, $125/wine). We tried this on the weekend before our recent rotisserie joy.



Baked Buffalo Ricotta ($20) wins for simplicity, allowing stellar produce to speak for itself. It's served up with witlof, toasted almonds and white nectarine.



Pan Fried Sardines ($22) sing with pine nuts, sultanas and Marsala. The recipe comes from the chef's Grandmother.



Wholemeal Pici Pasta ($24)
with rabbit ragout, porcini and peas is my pick of the house-made pastas; but only by a nose.



The two year aged Bagoss Cheese Agnolotti with Tomato, Basil and Ligurian Olives ($24) is also captivating - the pasta itself is so tasty.



I started to struggle as we got into the mains, it is substantial in the tummy cuisine, even with the clean plating. This one is the Mulloway Fillet with Olive Crust, Sauteed Silverbeet and Potato Puree ($38). The dish wasn't my kind of fish dish, but it was beautifully cooked.



Our final main was the Brescian Pork Involtini ($37) with more yummy Storo Polenta - it's ever so tasty, and really appeals to the non-polenta eating dining companion.



I also tried the lovely Pumpkin Risotto - nicely cooked Carnaroli rice... this wasn't part of the degustation though.

Tanned and appropriately casual staff decked out in smart khaki man our table well. Our sparkling pink NV Col Di Luna ‘Rose di Valmonte’ ($53) never seems far away. Wines are well-priced too, with options as low as $29/bottle in both reds and whites.



When the seams are fit to burst, Fig Crudo, Pistachio Gelato and Cinnamon Bread ($15) wraps up the meal perfectly; and chef didn’t miss a beat on either occasion.



If I had any complaints it would be that lunch took so long I got a parking ticket... my own fault entirely, and it seems to be splitting hairs when it's the type of venue you want to stay in for the afternoon and watch The Spit Bridge open so the rich can access the harbour in their spiffy new yachts.

Ormeggio at The Spit
D’Albora Marina, The Spit, Mosman
Ph: (02) 9969 4088
Does My Bomb Look Big In This?

My Column This Week...



Published in the City Hub and City News.

This week I buy into the cult of the celebrity chef... well not entirely, I picked Matt Moran's right hand man, Simon Sandall. I watched him cook on New Year's Eve at the Opera House, and he saved me from the depressing reality of Samantha Ronson's DJ set (which sucked) with a very tasty little wagyu burger. On a more positive note, I loved listening to Goldfish, a South African duo, and have their CD on order, plus they were lovely to chat to. They stood on a stage with Nelson Mandela in front of 50,000 people and they cheered for five minutes non-stop. One of them said: "Now that's a real hero."