At night the broad communal tables of this hip daytime café house a mix of locals and families of the ill.
They’ve wandered down between visiting hours at the neighbouring Royal Prince Alfred Hospital, for convenience, familiarity and comfort.
A plate of Lamb Back Strap, Potato Gratin, Peas and Broad Beans ($30) provides this in spades, juxtaposing bright green peas with a big manly jus, and knitting it all together with one of the best gratins in town.
Equally good is a more lady-like plate of Pork Medallions ($28) set on a fine white onion puree with shaved asparagus spears.
Serves seem predicated on eating three courses with rooms for sides like a Rocket, Pear and Fennel Salad with Pecorino and Hazelnuts ($10), which could have benefited from a splash more vinegar on the day I dined.
For your entrée I’d skip a paltry serve of four Scallops with Pernod Eschallot Butter ($18) in favour of a more satisfying board of Charcuterie with Terrine ($18) crowned by excellent truffled salami and rabbit rillettes.
Accompany your meal by wine selected from a small but interesting list of suitable, easy-drinking companions, like a 2008 Flametree Chardonnay ($42/bottle).
Restored and replete, it's time to venture back into the fray.
(If a good breakfast will also help the cause, check out my earlier day-time review HERE.)
98-104 Parramatta Road, Camperdown
Ph: (02) 9519 3669