I’m not totally down with the great chef exodus to Westfield. So rather than talking up the in-centre dining experience, I’ll just say: this room mostly belies you’re there.
Regardless, Alessandro Pavoni is a great chef; and Fulvio Lancione is doing him proud behind the pans in this shiny, open-plan kitchen.
The dishes come Italy’s north, so think freshwater fishes, like a light Crudo of Rainbow Trout with Beetroot, Sheep’s Yoghurt and Olives ($23)...
... or a slightly less exciting Poached Murray Cod, Baccala and Cannellini Bean ($23). This dish really needed to be eaten with all ingredients in each mouthful, so the extreme saltiness of the baccala (salt cod) contrasted against the undersalted piece of fish.
There’s also exceptionally tasty (and toothsome) pasta like Wholemeal Bigoli with Yabbies and Green Peas ($23). In fact, this dish was so to my taste, I suspect I will need to eat it again soon.
Don’t miss the (local) Organic Snails ($19) with silverbeet, egg yolk and ethereal potato puree, in a dish that neatly wrestles snails from the French.
For a companion drink, this is the first place in Sydney to stock the Bologna blonde – Birra Ronzani ($19/750ml). Your taste buds may also be tempted by the tingle of the signature Pirlo ($14) cocktail featuring Aperol, amicably lengthened, and available by the Jug ($26).
Expect to pay for the gadget-rich setting, in price and what might be too-much perfection… The Spiedo Bresciano con Polenta ($39) was evenly cooked, but I preferred the slightly looser version at Ormeggio at The Spit. It’s churlish to quibble, so go live Lombardy at whichever of Alessandro’s settings suits you best.
My mouth appreciated the Strawberry Sorbet palate cleanser after the festival of meat, and who could say no to a mostly savoury Bossola with White Wine Poached Pears and Creme Fraiche ($14)? (You know, I wasn't sure what a bossola was either, but it fits somewhere between a Italian doughnut and a Pandoro if you ask me.)
Everyone needs to try regional Italian cuisines including this one... just sayin'.
Spiedo Restaurant & Bar
Shop 6004-6005 Level 6, Westfield Sydney, 188 Pitt Street, Sydney
Ph: (02) 8072 9999