March 19th, 2012

Does My Bomb Look Big In This?

Review - Stars at Pyrmont

Surprise your friends by taking them to this restaurant, cunningly disguised as a pizza joint. Dutch chef Karl Poeder has a number of Sydney’s biggest hitters in his pedigree, but my lips are sealed because he likes “surprising people”.

He astonished me with fat Popcorn Prawns ($15) in an airy batter against zingy chilli aioli. The crustaceans sing, but in Pyrmont, there’s really no excuse for bad seafood.

They’re followed by deep-fried Prawn Cakes ($15) (a nod to his Thai wife), perched on a long ribbon of cucumber. It’s visually appealing, and a deliciously wet contrast to their golden crunch. By now I’m smiling, even if I am perched kerbside on homemade furniture.

Since BYO is free, you’d be mad to dine unaccompanied (by your favourite red). It’ll go gangbusters with Mussels in Classic Napolitana and Chilli Oil ($18), not to mention...

...Karl’s handmade spaghetti with pine nuts set against prosciutto-wrapped Beef Ragu ($15).

It’s no indictment on the wafer thin slices of Roast Duck Breast, Raclette, Porcini and Oyster Mushroom Pizza ($14/$19/$29) that I take some home – the Dark Chocolate and Goat’s Cheese Cake with Burnt Fig ($9.50) wouldn’t travel. (It was so good, I ate it before photographing it... it also came with a friend's Mum's limoncello whipped into cream... did I mention good?)

Over a slice of killer cold pizza, I wonder idly if I should write this review at all…

Stars at Pyrmont
196 Harris Street, Pyrmont
Ph: (02)
9692 8763

Stars at Pyrmont on Urbanspoon
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