Alex Harmon finds one more reason to avoid Max Brenner (I've taught her well)...
Occupying the confused end of Oxford Street (I never know if I want a designer dress or a German sausage) is this new wine bar. While the name suggests masculinity (or beer) inside it’s feminine with a feathery ostrich theme, bright blue chairs and dusty coloured brick.
Not a beer tap in sight. I opt for a Chili and Passionfruit Martini ($17), easy on spice and heavy on fruit – turn up the heat, I say.
The Carrot and Beetroot Salad ($13) arrives looking so glossy it could grace the cover of a magazine.
Bundles of goats’ curd have us fighting to mop it up with cute Terracotta Baked Bread ($5).
Lamb Kefta ($14) exceed expectations with a baba ganoush silkier than a Matt Preston cravat.
However Garlic Prawns ($15) were the unanimous winner, for the chunks of garlic and chorizo. Only a tapas bar in Spain would be game to serve this swimming in so much oil.
Whoever thought to serve Doughnuts ($11/4) at a bar is king (but no relation to Donut King), only to be topped by the most impressive Bittersweet Chocolate Panna Cotta ($15) this side of town.
Ironic that Mr Brenner is staring at me from across the road. Cooper, you have my vote.
438 Oxford Street, Paddington
Ph: (02) 8084 5465