I slid back into Blancmange with the familiarity of catching up with an old friend; but change has been stirring in the form of a new young-gun chef.
Nathan Brindle's just twenty-four, but in this instance, take youth to mean forward thinking.
His first round of changes include a tempting set of appetisers – the standout being airy Blood Pud. with White Bean and Golden Raisin ($4) – and...
...a philosophy of making everything himself, from sourdough to soft cheese.
The latter accompanies my first ode to the season, a beautifully presented plate of Mirrool Creek Lamb ($34) with Jerusalem artichoke and a tumble of smashed peas. It’s dabbed gently with preserved lemon puree, a cleverly piquant counter to both the richness and cheese.
Since we’re already indulging, order his Chestnut Raviolo with Egg and Mushroom ($20) - it’s worth it just to see it split, oozing egg yolk and mascarpone cheese.
If bikinis do beckon, lock lips on his loin of Swordfish ($34) uniquely complemented with fennel and bacon jam.
While the food’s definitely tightened into what I’d say is Blancmange’s best, the plates are more kitsch; and tunes, an impressive array of art-rock with a decidedly French lean.
Both suit the art-enriched space, lined with bottles from Ian Meggitt’s discerning list.
You can see a previous visit to this restaurant HERE.
1 Station Street, Petersham
Ph: (02) 9568 4644