November 5th, 2012

Does My Bomb Look Big In This?

Review - One Moncur


“There were 42 people in here one night, and 41 were women,” quips One Moncur’s sommelier, Tristan Tomlinson. While he launches into an extended description about the three grapes you find in Champagne – chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier – I look around.  Even tonight, women outnumber men at least three to one.

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It’s a nifty space; and despite moving to bespoke bubbly wallpaper, you’ll still catch lipstick traces of the wilder ancestor – the Phoenix Hotel.


Cajoled by the chance to try a Champagne demonstrating each of the aforementioned grapes, I order the Champagne Flight ($30/3 x 60ml).

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I favour the 2002 Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage; a treat against the trio of perfectly ripe Cheeses ($25).

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Though the kitchen is short on space and gadgetry, real effort has been taken to select premium produce.


It shows in everything from our opening Oysters ($3.50/each) to...


...the heavily laden platter of Victor Churchill’s Deluxe Charcuterie ($39).


Beyond the Woollahra butcher, you’ll also find locally sourced Chocolates ($6.50) from neighbouring Rose Bay.


Digging deep into a Jamon Salad ($16) I muse it’s rare that an unassuming collection of leaves hides such glorious bounty.


With a Champagne-affected brain and a mouth full of Gorgonzola dolce, apple, almonds and jamon, life seems… grand.

One Moncur
1 Moncur Street, Woollahra
Ph: (02) 9363 0510

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