February 24th, 2013

Does My Bomb Look Big In This?

Review - Biota Dining

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Biota Dining gets its luxury from its use of space, and space is luxury - especially when you’re used to being squished together in the city!

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The restaurant, bar and grounds -complete with sculptures, kitchen garden...


...pond and (reasonably) friendly geese - speak of bounty and plenty.


There’s a definite synergy between the site, and what’s presented on the plates, but the whole here is greater than the sum of its parts.

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Get your first taste of garden botanicals in the Biota Pimms Cup ($15) before delving into the inviting wine list.

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I splashed out on the 2010 Bindi ‘Composition’ Chardonnay ($93); it’s vivid terroir only added to the equation.


For lunch you select three courses ($58/head) from a list of minimalist menu descriptions.


My fascination with beach plants meant Brooke Trout, Summer Squash, Samphire, Truffle Sand, Mussels was a must-have.


It was eclipsed by Beth McMillan’s wonderful Burrawong Duck presented with cauliflower, white raisins, pear and a flurry of pine needles...

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...and constructed by three chefs each brandishing long surgical tweezers.


As we awaited dessert of Sweetened Root Vegetables, Artichoke Ice Cream and Carrot Sponge (which ended up being the dish of the day) conversations randomly sprung up with other diners (despite the distance between tables).


It’s that kind of place…

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Biota Dining
Kangaloon Road, Bowral
Ph: (02) 4862 2005