When other restaurant guests walk past and embarrass themselves with involuntary wows, you’ve won the meal lottery.
Whilst intimidating, my mammoth Ribs Platter ($49) bearing two types of ribs (you want pork), appeals in a primal, hindbrain way.
It bypasses the intellect and stirs long-forgotten memories of the kill…
...or maybe I’m just getting carried away by the earthy, organic décor; rich with wood and tribal African designs?
This is the fourth Aussie outpost of a South African chain that treads the line between its heritage and its actual location quite nicely.
From the Australian end, you get to enjoy an exclusive line of Monte Beef – the Dry Aged Pasture-Fed Rib-Eye On The Bone ($48/400g) is a beauty.
It comes from a kitchen that flames (through the portals) like Dante’s Inferno, and eats best as a cross-cultural collision with sauces like Madagascan Green Peppercorn ($4) and African Hot Chilli ($4).
You’ll enjoy your meat (and chips) more if you lash out and get an array – the Crumbled King Island Blue Cheese ($4) especially.
The African connection also produces our wonderful waitress Carey Boucher (who hails from Pietermaritzburg); a list of South African wines; and the MWC Salad ($19) layered with sliced biltong.
Solid, satisfying and they even bag up leftovers…
The Meat & Wine Co.
InterContinental Hotel, 117 Macquarie Street, Sydney
Ph: (02) 9252 7888