December 9th, 2013

Does My Bomb Look Big In This?

Review - Ester

The austere minimalism of the room makes you concentrate on the subtlety of what's in the glass and on the plate.

Against a limited colour palate – even the kitchen and floor teams wear alternating navy and dark grey – I find myself leaning in to capture a whisker of smoke from the exquisite Roasted Oysters ($4/each).

It’s wood-fire that links Mat Lindsay’s cooking to the new style emerging from high-end favourites like Bridge Room and The Woods: pared back, unfussy, fundamental. So it seems fitting to try it with unpasteurised, artisan sake – Terada Honke ‘Katori 90%’ ($11/glass) - by a brewer who’s returned to pre-modern methods.

The Blood Sausage Sanga ($6/each) is so good, it’s causing me to have a Pavlovian response to Chippendale: my mouth waters and the steering wheel pulls toward the restaurant.

Eat sharing style (you get to try more). Let someone play Father and adorn the sticky Pork Hock ($32) with the juice of blackened orange.

Include a head of charred Cauliflower ($16) and...

...the Asparagus/Nasturtium/Egg ($16) combo for some green.

Take on any dessert the small menu cares to offer.

Three Milks ($11) pays homage to goat, cow and sheep, delivering a re-imagined Jersey caramel...

...while Mango/Passionfruit/Meringue ($15) looks like something Nanna would make, but surprises with both texture and taste.

46-52 Meagher Street, Chippendale
Ph: (02) 8068 8279

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