October 28th, 2014

Does My Bomb Look Big In This?

Review - Pei Modern

This week Alex Harmon leaves behind the dive bar & dives into some fine dining...

It takes a strong restaurant to knock down previous tenants, The Woods, but Mark Best has cleared the trees - and a few walls – in the Four Seasons to bring his famous Melbourne bistro to town. It’s relaxed fine dining, where you can share, or go 'cray cray' with mains.

We conquer the Tiger Prawns and Slow Cooked Pineapple ($24), summer tropics on a plate – barbequed with sweet and salty sea layers. From the ‘Clean and Green’ we take the La Luna Goat Cheese Custard with Asparagus ($18), cooked perfectly, but a little less of the green and more of the cheese would have suited this diner.

Cheese fiends like me must indulge in the Ricotta Dumplings ($30), served with kale and hazelnuts. I could eat it any time of the day; it’s like fine-dining comfort food.

As tempting as the hanging chickens look from the kitchen, it was the Rangers Valley Wagyu Rump ($46) that sold it for me, flame-grilled and mouth-watering with harissa and charcoaled onion.

Contender for most Instagrammed dessert of the year goes to the Chocolate Tart ($17). With thin shards of chocolate layered upon chocolate ganache, a delicate base and a rather unusual eucalyptus sauce, perhaps this bushranger-chic dessert is a nod to the nearby Rocks? Regardless, it works.

Pei Modern
Four Seasons Hotel, 199 George Street, Sydney
Ph: (02) 9250 3160

Pei Modern on Urbanspoon