Bare tables and thumping 90s rock, featuring Smashing Pumpkins and the Pixies, clue you in immediately that Darrell Felstead’s restaurant reincarnation is no longer a fine diner.
Thankfully long time Felstead fans, including myself, will find a through-line in the dishes making up his choose-your-own-adventure menu of any-day eating fun.
And since fun’s at the heart of things, I’m skipping straight to his Angel Cake ($15): textural, tasty and joyful to consume, this plate of lightly caramelised cake hunks, peppermint jelly, ginger sherbet sorbet and fresh strawberries is a real winner.
Design the rest of your dining adventure using solo snacks, share plates and savvy sides, complemented by a crafted and thoughtful wine list.
Sommelier Belinda Mackie puts the list down to having “good friends”, but I suspect she’s being modest. Her teaming the Yellow Tail Mullet ($3/each) white gazpacho and pumpernickel wafers with the 2011 Domaine Pichot ‘Coteau de la Biche’ ($8/$16/$32) confirmed my suspicion.
The kitchen’s robata grill is put to good use in the Smoked Octopus Salad ($22) featuring Felstead’s trademark (candied) olive smear.
The Braised Tamarind Short Rib ($36) and roast tri-tip combo is accentuated by another Felstead hallmark: robust yet airy eggplant foam.
The Pig’s Head Terrine ($22) sums up everything: laidback yet delicious with playfulness (hello toffee apple) and cheffy flair.
Foveaux St Dining
65-67 Foveaux Street, Surry Hills
Ph: (02) 9211 7752