Ryan Kennedy found surf was up in Rosebery...
Land-locked and industrial, Rosebery is far cry from where you would expect to find beachside motifs and a menu to match. However with Surf Life Saving (SLS) Australia’s National Headquarters situated above it, Clubhouse is an incongruous but welcome presence.
Befitting the SLS-connection, high ceilings, an open kitchen, and the wood furnishings and finish throughout, render the industrial space remarkably spacious and light.
Similarly beach-appropriate is the simple but very well executed menu. A pair of ‘slaw-filled Flathead Tacos ($12) are scrunching-sand-between-your-toes good, and the smoked goat’s curd and quinoa in the earthy Pickled Beetroot Salad ($20) feels as healthy as it is delicious.
The richness of an artful tangle of sticky Spiced Lamb Ribs ($24) finds its perfect foil on a bed of tahini and za’atar yoghurt.
Pork Belly Slow Cooked ($29) is everything you’d want pork belly to be, made wonderfully complex with heavily caramelised radicchio, pickles, and a spinach and honey emulsion.
Even humble Steamed Green Beans ($8) exceed their station, courtesy of crunchy garlicky pangritata and horseradish butter.
And to finish, you can’t go past the toffee parfait and honeycomb-crunch-filled ode to childhood nostalgia: the Clubhouse Gaytime ($15). This is one well-cooked taste of the beach in the inner-west, and definitely worth checking out.
789 Botany Road, Rosebery
Ph: (02) 9669 2828