Flying under the radar, Ahgora has been part of Glebe’s dining landscape for nearly three years, with very little of note written about it.
The narrow terrace is quite striking inside, with a bold geometric paint line and clever asymmetrical strip lighting design, softened by vertical plant trellises.
Chef Marek Oravec is dishing up modern dishes inspired by Greek and other Mediterranean cuisines, starting with an excellent Moussaka ($34). Long fibres of beef brisket, grilled eggplant and kipfler potato are lightly smothered in an airy ricotta béchamel that cuts against their intensity perfectly.
Equally good are Haloumi Ravioli ($24) – Ahgora’s signature dish. The salty intensity of the cheese is tamed by silky, thin pasta skins and a burnt butter sauce that is given interest with crisp sage leaves, plump golden raisins and house-made lemon jam.
Decision making is made somewhat easier by ordering the Five-Course Banquet Menu ($55/head) where you get a shared mezze plate between two, your choice of three mains, two sides and a shared dessert. The Mezze Plate ($19) offers up two dips – tarama and tzatziki – some olives and smoked pitta bread.
I’m more taken with Seared Prawns ($26) – a thoroughly modern, summery dish of tenderly cooked prawns, chive emulsion, pickled tomato, smoked fetta and puffed rice for texture. They go down well with the 2012 Roustabout Chardonnay ($65) from Pemberton in Western Australia.
While service is well intentioned, they could improve upon wine knowledge. “I just know whether I like it or not,” doesn’t quite cut it when it comes to explaining Greek wines, particularly when it would have been easy to liken the 2015 Fteri Arcadia Moschofilero ($12/glass) to gewürztraminer.
We end on a shared Lemon Strudel ($16). The strudel itself is plain and lacks the expected lemon hit, but it's rescued by sharp lemon curd, apple sorbet and crisp apple straws.
94 Glebe Point Road, Glebe
Ph: (02) 9518 7695