Sea urchin roe is a definite favourite; just like an oyster, eating it lets you have an intimate encounter with the sea.
At home we eat our urchin roe on hot buttered sourdough, so we had no problems easing our Pambula Sea Urchin ($28) out of its spiky shell, and smearing it onto a decadent buttery crumpet during our brunch at Saint Peter.
Throw in a savoury daytime drinker – the 2014 Tripe Iscariot ‘Aspic’ Rosé ($75) – and I was as close to content as you can get in the current political climate.
The talented Josh Niland takes scrambled eggs to the next level by teaming them with a whole Donnybrook Marron ($44). It’s visually spectacular, and the tender, sweet crustacean eats beautifully against just-set eggs. While it’s hard to resist comparing the ever-changing roster of oysters, it’s the breakfast-styled dishes like this one that I’m most enamoured with on this clever brunch menu.
However for the oyster aficionados, despite being tiny, the Moonlight Kiss Oysters ($4.50/each) scrubbed up best against Wonboyn Rock Oysters ($5/each) and four year old Tathra Rock Oysters ($5.50) on this particular occasion.
Making Smoked Silver Lake Eel ($18) into something akin to a brandade is a clever twist, allowing you to liberally coat pikelets then dress them with your preferred condiment(s). Capers, shallots, lemon, herbs – they work well in tandem – my only complaint is the generosity of the eel brandade made me want for a few more golden pikelets to play with. We contented ourselves with ordering Barley-Rye Sourdough and Cultured Butter ($3) and smearing our remainders onto that.
While this is a pricy place to brunch, you need to weigh that up against the impeccable, sustainable seafood you’re consuming.
You can also fill out any corners with sides like Fried Cauliflower ($14) turned seaward with cuttlefish ink and shallot, or Niland’s epic King Edward Potato Scallop ($2). It’s the best darn potato scallop you’ll ever eat, and it’s only two bucks.
NOTE: You can find a review of Saint Peter's dinner menu HERE.
362 Oxford Street, Paddington
Ph: (02) 8937 2530