With unique fusion dishes like Seared Atlantic Salmon with Green Curry Spaghetti ($22.90) on the menu, it’s immediately clear that Long Kin likes to monkey around with Thai food. New to Pyrmont, this restaurant offers up traditional Thai dishes alongside the modern Thai fusion dishes that owner/chef Suween Jaisuetrong likes to cook at home.
With a large sail of crisp Atlantic salmon skin, the aforementioned dish is both beautifully presented, and surprisingly successful. Al dente spaghetti responds well to the soupy green curry sauce, tenderly flaking fillet of fish, and the accompanying crisp green beans, red capsicum, Thai sweet basil and eggplant.
We’re also excited by a duo of Mar Hor ($8.90/2 pieces). While it’s based on a traditional Thai dish called galloping horses, Suween has worked her magic here too, choosing to present the dish as juicy orange slices topped with pork floss, caramel rice cooked with palm sugar and coconut, and a slice of red chilli. It's a lively and exciting mouthful that nearly makes me forget it's winter.
The future restaurant signature though is definitely going to be the Massaman Nuea ($18.90). Dotted with the spices the curry contains, you’ll find this creamy gravy lends itself beautifully to the osso bucco (cross-cut veal shanks) and marrow contained within. The round white dome gives you the option to soak up the well-balanced tangy gravy two ways – with mash or the more traditional Steamed Jasmine Rice ($3/person). The tangy lime and tamarind in the sauce makes the off-dry Pewsey Prima Riesling ($10/$52) a good choice if you’re looking for a wine match on the short but well-priced and chosen list.
The Forest Hill Highbury Chardonnay ($12/$44) is another versatile white that is cuisine appropriate for dishes like the Infused Salmon Tartare ($8.90/2 pieces). Presented on crisp fried wonton skins, this diced raw salmon is quite deceptive – it looks mild but packs a great sour punch with lemongrass, lime and lively chilli.
On the floor, Sutee Limprasitthikun – a pharmacist by trade – is warmly supportive of his wife’s left-of-centre culinary vision. He explains the restaurant’s décor began when "first of all we purchased the monkey" that you’ll find in the front window. The monkey led to bananas, and the yellow colour theme – an uplifting update for this glass box space that has housed Italian restaurants for the last ten years.
And if reading the kitchen testimony to the virtues of bananas leaves you with a hankering, you’ll be pleased to note they are more than just a gimmick!
They turn up on the dessert menu as Battered and Deep Fried Bananas ($13.90) – crisp, sweet, satisfying and big enough to share.
Shop 1/2-14 Bunn Street, Pyrmont
Ph: (0451) 685 944