No newcomer to Sydney’s burger scene, Cheekyburger on Oxford Street, Paddington looks small from the front, but is expansive in the rear. It stands out as an oddity amongst the fancy boutiques and high-end price tags the suburb is known for.
With a long red padded banquette down one wall, and bar stools looking at corrugated tin on the other, the look is definitely American-style diner. Cheekyburger also seem to have adopted that country’s emphasis on service with a smile.
I observe them inducting a new employee into the Cheekyburger way over a middling pair of cocktails. Bahama Mama ($15.99) takes Havana Club Especiale, Malibu, fresh pineapple juice and lemon and presents them in a glass with ice, a wedge of lime and very little fanfare. I like it slightly better than the Louisiana Punch ($15.99), which looks identical, but is made with Bulleit bourbon, sour apple liqueur, fresh apple juice and lemon, garnished with a green apple slice. It feels like paying a cocktail price for a mixed drink, so next time I'd pay closer attention to the Budweiser neon, and stick to beer.
The Cheeky Doublecheese ($15.99) arrives wrapped in paper like an American burger. We chose to double the patty, and upon tasting this good blend of chuck steak, brisket and fat, felt glad that we did. It’s juicy and beefy, and the extra layer is also coated in appropriately melted American cheese. They’re sandwiched between soft milk buns with Cheeky sauce and pickles. For those who like their burgers simple, this is a good one to try.
Tomato has no place on a fried chicken burger. Perhaps I’m being harsh, but the Fried Chicken Sandwich ($15.99) here would definitely have eaten better without it. It is served without paper wrapping, probably because it has a long protuberance of Southern-style buttermilk fried chook, along with lettuce, cheese, the offending tomato, and spicy mayo., all loaded into a brioche-style bun.
Regular shoestring fries are loaded with an insipid Mexican-inspired chilli beef and beans in the Chilli Cheese Fries ($11.99). I found myself shaking it off the fries, or eating around it, so I wouldn’t exactly label this dish a success.
Despite dining on Cheap Tuesday, at the register only one burger reduced to ten bucks, with no real indication as to why the other did not. Even with the discount, the meal felt expensive for two burgers, a couple of drinks and some chips, so I probably wouldn't return, despite liking the doublecheese burger.
312 Oxford Street, Paddington
Ph: (02) 9331 7436