John Marshall lured me to Frugii Dessert Laboratory with cheese ice cream. His store is located in the hip Ori building that is part of the changing face of Braddon. With nods to the suburb's industrial and mechanical history, this futuristic building is so named because it looks liked folded origami.
Walking inside, each shop front has a distinctive look, with the beauty of the architectural features, like factory alloy doors, taking prominence over glaring brand names and signage. The lighting is moody, rather than fluorescent.
Fitting in perfectly, Frugii Dessert Laboratory has all the hallmarks of a science lab. They hide away their ice cream in pozzetti - lidded, temperature-controlled metal cylinders. While it’s certainly more eye-catching to see mounds of brightly coloured gelato, haven’t you noticed at the stores that do this, the ice cream's texture is always terrible?
Avoiding the use of gimmicks and colourings, John has stripped ice cream down to what it should be: good tasting, good feeling, icy cold spoonfuls of joy. He makes all his own bases, extracts, powders and even chocolate, extracting it from the bean himself.
The Stilton Ice Cream ($5.50) I tried was the stuff of (cheese) dreams. It is salty, cheesy, and rich – a small amount goes a very long way. The texture is silky, coating your mouth with a milky, pleasure that reminded me of being a kid. In my head I instantly started dreaming up dishes it could be added to, like a topping for a canape of smoked mussels, or a scoop on a piece of warm cherry pie. My hat is off to John Marshall for making the best ice cream I’ve tried.
Frugii Dessert Laboratory
Ground Floor, Ori Building,
30 Lonsdale Street, Braddon
Ph: (02) 6248 5748