With Sydney socialite owner Christian Avant known for making extravagant decisions all in aid of keeping the good times rollin’, it should come as no surprise that his chain of burger joints operates with a similar ethos.
Stepping into his seven-month-old Parramatta outlet from staid boring Macquarie Street, is like walking onto the set of a modern day Happy Days.
It’s hard not to stop and gawp at the colourful candy shop environment, where murals and paste-ups compete with Mortal Kombat arcade games for your attention.
The tunes are energetic; the staff are engaged and smiling; and the cocktails are hectic. Even the tap water bottles are given a classic Coke bottle twist, with glasses coming with ice and (almost extinct) plastic straws.
Marshmallow-infused white rum forms the basis of the pretty'n'pink Bubblegum Sour ($16). Despite a sweet topper of Persian fairy floss and torched marshmallows, it's actually quite sour and reasonably easy to drink. I can't quite say the same about the Mint Aero Cocktail ($18) from the October specials menu. However it really does taste like an Aero Bar was flung into a blender with a decent slurp of 42 Below Vodka; and it’s certainly hard to withhold a smile when it lands, lashed with chocolate syrup, rimmed with chocolate flakes and buried under hazelnut foam.
Deep Fried Mash Potato Balls ($11) are another October extra that'll get you creating Snapchat videos involving injectable cheese gravy in no time. The fluffy golden balls are already topped with Mexican cheese, Parmesan and truffle aioli, though we threw in some chilli sauce for the complete Ken Done effect (and to help cut through all that rich, cheesy grease).
What you’re really here for is, of course, the burgers; and, if you follow Milky Lane’s social feed, the fact that they’re well presented smile-makers should come as no surprise. Looks aside, I really enjoyed eating Chic-Kanye ($19). It's Milky Lane’s take on a crisp Southern fried chicken burger, with maple-smoked bacon, the requisite oozing golden American cheese, butter leaf lettuce, and a trio of sauces (take that Bobby Flay). The jalapeno pineapple relish and the smoky barbeque worked wonderfully together, and I enjoyed licking drips off my fingers as they rained down in an avalanche of Carolina ‘slaw.
If you can believe it, Limp Brisket ($19) is even messier affair, but it's slightly less cohesive in the flavour department. Between two rapidly dissolving buns you’ll find a hefty mound of 12-hour Texan rubbed smoked beef brisket braised in barbeque sauce that competes with their special sauce, American mustard and ketchup to see which can ruin your clothing fastest. With onion rings and more ‘slaw to contend with as well, this burger is definitely not first date material, even if seems like a great idea at the time.
Just like blowing $1000 getting your cars towed home from a festival then missing your $1000 hummer home and having to take a $260 cab, visiting Milky Lane will likely be one of the best bad decisions you make (for a lot less coin).
20-22 Macquarie Street, Parramatta
Ph: (02) 9689 3893