Lured in by a mate’s photo of foie gras-dusted nigiri sushi, I recently checked out the curiously named Sushi Oh-Oo. You’ll find the modest, galley-like restaurant in Five Dock. The intimate restaurant is fronted by a small enclave of outdoor, curbside tables separated from Great North Road by a screen, and an orderly row of chairs for customers awaiting takeaway. There’s certainly no space for them inside!
Despite the tiny footprint, effort has been made to create an inviting space using natural materials. The kitchen is encased in wood and paper screens. Overhead there’s a dark bamboo ceiling and down one side, a textural stucco feature wall with leaves inset into the plaster that reminds me of a bamboo forest. Hanging ukiyo-e (pictures of the floating world) flags add a splash of bright colour to the otherwise neutrally toned room.
Staff use little stools to retrieve dishes over the high sushi counter that is decorated with fish scale tiles. While sushi is what I’m here to eat, I note that the illustrated menu also offers up an extensive array of hot dishes and bento boxes. First dish to arrive is the aforementioned Grilled Big Salmon Belly Nigiri with Foie Gras ($15/2 pieces). A small barrel of hand-shaped sushi rice is draped in a big, fatty swathe of salmon belly. It has been given a very light sear to activate the fat, and a good dusting of finely shaved foie gras. It’s rich, indulgent and extremely delicious.
I pull back with Avocado Nigiri ($4/2 pieces). It arrives as two gravity-defying pieces topped with fans of flawless, ripe avocado.
Egg Nigiri ($4/2 pieces) here is delicately sweet and tender, rather than rubbery and flavourless as so many of them are. The topping to rice ratio is generous, secured firmly with little bands of nori.
Grilled Wagyu Beef Nigiri ($18/6 pieces) is the perfect way to finish. Each piece is tender with a big, flavoursome beef hit. They’re painted with sticky yakiniku sauce that’s used sparingly enough to just provide some caramelisation and sweetness, knocking out the need for soy sauce; though the fluffy wasabi is an asset against the rich meat.
Sushi Oh-Oo’s standout sushi will definitely drag me back - I don’t think I have eaten better sushi in the Inner West.
93 Great North Road, Five Dock
Ph: (02) 9712 0377