MissDissent (missdissent) wrote,

Review - Elio

With a wham, bam and a young Italian brat pack full of suave confidence, Chef Daniele Giannuzzi brings to life a clever menu of “emotional Italian”, direct from Puglia in the ‘heel’ of Italy. In a stylish, modern setting that is simplicity personified, his home-town delivers a fresh grassy extra virgin olive oil that floors me with Pane di Casa ($3).

The meaty marinated Green Sicilian Olives ($7) excel. I swear I can taste small goods.

Ricotta and Potato Gnocchi ($21)
with New Zealand rabbit ragu slide across the lips like fine silk pantyhose, seductively sinful. To put it more, plainly, this is the best gnocchi I have had in oh-so-long.

Fork split the soft egg on a mound of toothsome, house-made Straccetti Pasta with Duck Leg Maryland ($23) topped with slices of Umbrian black truffle and you’ll understand why I’m dribbling.

The mains were humbling - house-milked Squid Ink Risotto ($29) is jet black. The briny mix of rice and finely diced seafood is strange and intoxicating;  it’s topped with perfectly cooked New Zealand scampi and broad beans.

Eight Hour Beer Braised Angus Beef Cheeks ($29) with roast chestnuts and porcini mushrooms are huge and perfect. I’m floored by them.

Luckily I am able to be revived with a Vanilla Bean Pannacotta ($16) with house-made rosewater (so good I whimper) and liberal application of a 2006 Fasio Insolia ($40). If this ain’t the future of Sydney’s Italian cuisine, spank me.

159 Norton Street, Leichhardt
Ph: (02) 9560 9129

PS: I know the Pannacotta is their best dessert because I tried them all. Bwah ha ha ha ha ha (yes totally crazy in love with this one). But if I had to choose a second place, it's the little chocolate cakes on the right hand side. Nutty, chocolaty goodness!

Elio on Urbanspoon
Tags: food, wine
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