Loris Ragazzi has managed to inject a little warmth into the cool fish tank that once was Zeffirelli. The menu’s got a few issues, the reading of the specials takes too long; and they may be a shade pricy unless you come in on a ‘locals’ special – get ‘in the know’ on their email list.
However their wood-fired pizza has an excellent, tasty crust. I’d order the Montanara ($23) layered with beautifully thin rashers of deli-sliced speck, Asiago cheese, tomato and porcini mushrooms again.
I prefer lighter batter than the one presented on the Zucchini Flowers ($15); but the Italian cheese stuffing was approachable.
If you like things sweet, try their House-Made Pumpkin and Amaretti Tortelloni ($24) with a butter sage sauce – lovely pasta, cooked deftly, soft, fresh sage.
For a big manly steak, their 300g 6+ Wagyu Steak ($43) was well cooked.
It suited the homely (and more-ish) Green Beans with Marjoram and Chilli ($8) (one side was included with this main).
A recommended bottle of Sardinian Pala Vermentino ($38) was a bright, potpourri of flowers that suited our meal. Overall wine is a strong suit, decent in price, lots of Italian. The Creme Catalan ($12) had a lemony cheesecake edge, but I had a good crack!
An oddment that I did quite like in a daggy sort of way was the moving water effect these left over decorations had on the ceiling. Between them and the plastic plants I did feel like I was in a fish-tank. Oh look a castle...
2-14 Bunn Street, Pyrmont
Ph: (02) 9552 1509