Some Sydney restaurants are all about location, and this is another one of them, but in this case the interior is as charming as the aspect.
Easy parking – must be winter – so it’s a great time to visit this homely venue with an English seaside resort feel.
The furnishings suit the space, I love the aqua chest of drawers and the slightly frayed patchwork chair cushions.
The 2007 Nepenthe Pinot Gris ($9/glass, $49/bottle) helps you slow to beach-time.
Sip it slowly as you graze on an excellent (and well-priced) Antipasto Plate ($18.50). The Truffle Group assures great produce (olives and prosciutto are standouts), but it’s Chef Ant Ewart who twists them in unusual ways. His lemon oil topped Eggplant Dip could be Sydney’s best and smokiest; his Avocado Dip also surprises. Very few grissini make the sharing platter perfect for the carb-conscious Eastern Suburbs ladies-who-lunch set.
Eggs Benedict ($15.50) wins me easily with the promise that the Hollandaise is made from scratch for each order – you can taste the difference.
Fresh oregano gives the mouth a workout in the incredibly light Veal Meatballs with Orecchiette and Baked Pepper, Tomato and Olive Sauce ($18.50). Clean, simple plating is a relief; and effervescent Café Manager Nicholas Szabo makes good crema on a Latte ($3.50). Don’t let the toffs keep this one to themselves; it’s affordable, good and for the people!
Nielsen Park Kiosk Café
Nielsen Park, Graycliffe Avenue, Vaucluse
Ph: (02) 9337 7333