One of the pitfalls of a menu illustrated with photos is, if the dishes come out looking a little tawdry compared to the mouth-watering photos, diners hardly need a food critic to be telling them they’re not getting what they should be!
My Sirloin Cheddar Grille Sandwich ($20.50) doesn’t live up to the promise of the menu photo’s fat, layered loveliness, but the beef is well-cooked.
An Onion Loaf ($11.50) with large deep-fried loops of onion is more on the money. I find it a curious sharing plate to eat though, the rings stick together somewhat so it's fraught with moments of sticky struggle. As a contrast, the Appetiser Sampler ($20.90) is easily shared, and won by the Fire Wings with blue cheese dipping sauce.
This is drinking food, so I indulge in a sweetish Strawberry Caprioska ($15.50) then a better Green Apple Martini ($16.50).
Ribs are of course the speciality of the house; the Original Baby Backs ($22.90/half slab, $34.90/full slab) are accompanied by a well-loaded baked potato (you pick the trimmings) and an uninspiring coleslaw. They’re meaty and the recipe dates back to 1972, but I’m left wondering if they really live up to the promise of being Sydney’s best finger-licking ribs?
Portion sizes have come down a notch since my last visit... apparent in the Steak and Ribs Combo which again looked a little poor in comparison to the succulent, fat steak in the photo. The pepper sauce that came with it however was excellent.
I commend the staff on their attitude to disabled diners. It’d be an easy place to dine with kids or a large group, too.
121-123 Sussex Street, Sydney
Ph: (02) 9299 8500