‘Glamorous’ designer Yasumichi Morita has created a wood-wind cathedral of quivering Javanese wood batons inside this recently renovated space...
...but using your frosty cocktail glass as a make-shift snow dome over the Sydney Opera House is priceless.
Contemporary tradition meanders across the updated menu of Executive Chef Raita Noda. Start with the playfully tactile Chotto Collection ($23) of five tasty bar snacks including a curry pan and a mini cornet of marinated blue-fin tartare.
The memorable Sake Jelly Bar Cod ($21) drips umami as you unwrap smoky ribbons of konbu to reveal silky seared cod.
Our experienced server Iva Jezkova gently but firmly steers us towards the creative cubes and uniquely salted spoons of the Tuna Creation ($23) with a wonderfully confusing glass of the 2007 Chateau Riotor Rose ($11/glass, $58/bottle). She wins on both counts – the interactive dish has great palate length but isn’t built for sharing; while the salmon-pink wine contrasts sweet strawberries with reassuring dryness.
Lashing out on a Peppercorn Lobster ($19/100g, average weight 600-800g) proves a salty yet satisfying experience.
A steaming Ocean Trout Pot ($37) provides even more table theatrics plus a complex yet creamy foil to the extracted hunks of salty-sweet lobster. Chortling Japanese businessmen are also entertaining and entertained by the cuisine.
Sated and smiling I venture into the night, but not before we balance the salt with a sweet finale - this is the Apple Abstract ($17).
I also tried the Japanese inspired Petit Fours ($12). They won me on the savoury courses this time, well and truly.
This is my third visit to this restaurant. You can read about my other visits HERE and even more recently HERE.
Bay 4, Ground Level, Overseas Passenger Terminal, George Street, The Rocks
Ph: (02) 9252 9585