Irish owner/chef Patrick Kielty is very good at combining flavours. I can see some influence from his time with Omar Majdi at Souk in the City on this menu, which elevates the humble spud beyond the food court and into the world of the gourmand. I also remember him from my visit to the now-defunct Bed Bar & Restaurant.
Pop into the newly renovated, spud-centric café (right down to the art and literature) for an inexpensive but very cheffy breakfast.
A lofty tower of Crispy Feta and Quinoa Spud Cakes ($14) sit on marinated feta under smoked salmon, an egg and a squidgy blob of preserved lemon that sets off the lot! It’s hearty stick-to-your-ribs material; as are the Grilled Organic Mushroom Polenta ($13) squares nicely balanced by a great tomato relish and creamy goat’s curd.
Condiment queens will love it here, creating their own flavour journeys on the Boxty ($14), a traditional potato pancake from the Emerald Isle.
The Black Pudding ($4) is a worthy side; and of course you should try out the work of the shiny King Edward Oven centrepiece in a few Cheesy Spud Skins ($4). The organic Robertson potatoes come up very nicely!
This is also the first outpost stocking Pigeon Coffee (carefully chosen so as not to spoil your palate for potato); great in a well-presented Latte ($3) or Flat White ($3).
479 Crown Street, Surry Hills
Ph: (02) 9698 8108