Expand your organic vocabulary in this earthy yet elegant space that rescues ancient grains and biodynamic farming from the hippy, brown rice and Nimbin brigade.
With social justice and charity firmly on the menu, it’s nice to see it’s not at the expense of flavour.
Clever cooking from Simon Lawson shines in Crispy Berkshire Pork with Apple Basil Remoulade ($18).
The ancient grains Simon favours first make an appearance in enjoyable Potato and Leek Croquettes with Aioli and Royal Red Quinoa ($15).
I’m not as convinced by pea and basil risotto against four gloriously plump Sea Scallops ($22), but I liked their Marine Stewardship Council certification.
Perfect parsley and smoky vine leaves pop in the Grilled Haloumi ($12); set off beautifully by pear and lime notes in the 2009 Lethbridge Ooh La La Chardonnay. It’s a new entry on the evolving and interesting organic wine list.
Spring Bay Mussels ($36) with gorgeous hand-cut chips are (thankfully) left mostly to their own briny devices;...
...as are clean, creamy Clevedon Coast Organic Oysters ($24/half dozen).
Roasted Lamb ($30) on the other hand is comfort epitomised with gooey polenta, garlic and silverbeet.
Spelt is celebrated via thin, crunchy pizzas, and a...
...wickedly good Chocolate Spelt Brownie ($16).
Both are forgotten when the Upside Down Pineapple and Spelt Cake ($16) with coconut sorbet, butterscotch sauce and house-dried organic pineapple lands.
There was also a Honey, Cinnamon and Vanilla Brulee ($15) in the mix, but really, my dessert memories are very pleasantly dominated by the upside down cake.
Heartfelt, joyous and keenly priced if you consider that you're eating top-notch produce that delivers on both flavour and ethics.
PS: While I was dining I purchased a $30 booklet which contains five $20 dining vouchers. Each voucher ($6) purchased sends a hundred meals overseas to feed the hungry. I am offering up two vouchers to the two comments on this review that best convince me of your NEED to try organic food at this restaurant.
Agapé Organic Restaurant & Bar
1385-1387 Botany Road, Botany
Ph: (02) 8668 5777 www.agaperestaurant.com