MissDissent (missdissent) wrote,

Review - The Village

New owners, Barossa Valley Wine brothers Dylan and Justin Fairweather, have dropped the New York aspirational ‘East’ (this used to be The East Village Hotel), and made this Darlo icon a well-priced dining proposition. Their wine connections make for a more interesting gastro-pub wine list. The 2009 Juniper Estate ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay ($68) hinted at the promise of vines about to hit their fifteenth year.

Well-chosen flowers, curved wooden chairs, terracotta water jugs and a retro cake keeper give the light and airy room a rustic, Laura Ashley feel.

A spoonful of Kingfish Tartare made for a unexpected and nice amuse bouche beginning.

In the kitchen Yorkshire lad Adam Spencer turns out flavoursome and seasonally appropriate entrees like Peas and Ham ($14). Adam’s playful deconstruction of split pea and ham soup featuring quail eggs, salty pancetta crumbs, pea panna cotta and pea puree, is visually and orally exciting; I just wanted more!

Ditto for the tiny trio of Scallops ($15) with clever candied fennel.

A well-cooked main of Pork Belly ($28) had me wishing the tasty black pudding wasn’t hidden away in potato.

Gnocchi ($24) with zucchini, hazelnuts and goat’s curd was curiously tubular, but engaging none-the-less.

Bursting berries in a very summery Moscato Jelly ($12) and...

...negotiating the self-assembly Chocolate Lamington ($12) added to the fun. Arrive before sunset to enjoy a river of bats spilling across the spectacular view.

The Village
234 Palmer Street, Darlinghurst
Ph: (02) 9331 5457

The Village on Urbanspoon
Tags: food, wine
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