What a difference a year makes! Leigh McDivitt has come into his own in this tucked-away Rozelle gem; so well hidden that it escaped the notice of the SMH milliners!
The Amuse Bouche includes an amazing horseradish ice-cream - I'm not going to say much more about this dish - you just need to eat it.
His Galantine of Quail and Foie Gras with Sweetcorn Puree and Basil Jelly ($24) hung together effortlessly. The jelly was bouncy, the puree fine, the tidy rounds of quail and foie gras moist and tasty – making it an utter pleasure to playfully combine.
Leigh’s Bouillabaisse ($23) gives the classic dish a much-needed update - a ‘seashore’ foam sits on silky squid ink gnocchi speckled with beautifully cooked WA marron.
The momentum is maintained by the mains – the Thirlmere Duck ($27) presents as a roasted breast accompanied by a crazy pink rhubarb gel, a puy lentil, ham hock and cuttlefish salad, and a duck liver and confit duck leg sausage that steals the show.
As for the Tortellini of Porcini, Raisin and Leek with Cavolo Nero Puree and Porcini Veloute ($28) it’s easily the best vegetarian dish I’ve eaten in the last year. My plate included three large slices of truffle, which added to the dish immensely.
Add to this Nicholas Luhman’s mastery of the wine list – beginning with a glass of Louis Roederer NV ($22) (possibly my favourite champagne of the moment) then rising to the vanilla oak of a cracking 2008 Dog Point Chardonnay ($59) – and you have one amazing meal. With our taste buds so well sated, we only indulged in a plate of petit fours, won by the honey nougat notes of the macaron.
[See my previous visits HERE (July 2010) and HERE (October 2009).]
The Restaurants @ 3 Weeds
197 Evans Street, Rozelle
Ph: (02) 9818 2788