The hipness of the flaming, Las Vegas style fit-out belies the seriousness of the cooking...
...so don’t be put off by overhead aphorisms, the food is definitely less glib.
Cocktails will ease your passage into pretentious – the Strawberry Blonde ($18) is fizzy, fun and feminine; while a Warsaw Club ($18) throws off the girly facade with masculine Védrenne fig liqueur stiffened by egg-white foam.
Forewarned is forearmed, so I thank my exuberant waiter for my pleasant Sunday lunch companion; a 2006 Canobolas-Smith Chardonnay ($13/glass) unfortunately saddled with a label that “looks like the rebirth of Jesus in Bethlehem.” Popping Sydney’s standout Handmade Wagyu Potstickers ($16) into my gob followed by...
...a tarter-than-most Shredded Roasted Duck Salad ($16), it was impossible to ignore Chef Patrick Dang’s mastery of Asian cuisines.
Ergo I’m inclined to forgive over charred Yamba King Prawns ($38), especially considering the clarity of the accompanying cauliflower curry.
Den Miso Eggplant ($9) hinted at brilliance for want of more cooking time...
...but his Ranger Valley Wagyu Beef ($35) was totally wow-worthy; especially paired with pickled Chinese cabbage and mouth-soothing fried turnip cake. Less portly lunch portions would ensure pouty princesses like me could also partake of Pear Tartin ($13).
33 Bayswater Road, Kings Cross
Ph: (02) 9380 8307