It’s hard not to smile at the riotous colours adorning this Darlinghurst hotspot. It’s named for Pedro Almodóvar’s Kika, a film that employed the fashion sensibilities of Gaultier and Versace.
Whacky wallpaper screams for Sangria ($13/500ml); the resulting rich, ruby red goblets do not disappoint. With the name reference to the country’s most famous filmmaker; and Tuesday nights given over to celebrating recipes from Ferran Adrià, their most famous chef; it’s clear we’re here to pay homage to Spain.
Funny then it’s a Columbian chef that delivers the best Patatas Bravas ($11) I’ve tried in Sydney, with crunchy wedges of potato adorned with spicy tomato and a flourish of aioli.
The traditional Spanish potato omelette, or Tortilla de Patatas ($13), is another well-executed fav., while Kingfish with White Wine and Toasted Almonds ($19) could do with less pan time.
On the wilder side try a tender duo of BBQ Eye Fillets ($21) set off by shaved beetroot and tangy blue cheese, and...
...a crumbed quartet of Cassava, Fetta and Chorizo Croquettes ($13).
They demand the fruit-forward company of the 2009 Sangre de Toro Granach-Torres ($9/glass), and possibly some greens - crunchy stalks of Sautéed Broccolini ($13.50) in a Modena balsamic reduction do just fine.
Viva la España!
247 Victoria Street, Darlinghurst
Ph: (02) 9360 7865