Steak has a new subterranean address.
It’s not the usual penis temple either – illustrated by The Hon. Pru Goward, Minister for Women dining one table over. Though do expect to have to man-up to tackle Head Chef James Privett’s robust entrée of Roast Quail, Smoked Eel, Duck, Celeriac and Goat’s Cheese ($24).
Like everything I tasted - including Hastings River Rock Oysters ($3.80/each) - it doesn’t skimp on prime quality ingredients.
Rather than overwhelming you with choice, Privett confidently delivers three excellent types of beef - Sher F1 Wagyu, Riverine 150 Day Grain Fed and Tasmanian Wilderness Grassfed. Call it educational and eat them side-by-side on the Beef Fillet Tasting Plate ($72) with Sauce Bordelaise ($5). I was delighted to note I preferred the flavour of the Tasmanian Wilderness Grassfed beef, though found the Sher F1 Wagyu hard to beat on texture - all this grassfed eating has really given me a taste for it!
Sure, it’s an easy place to spend money, but guaranteed pleasure results, especially if you follow the recommendations of the engaged floor team.
Daniel Katsanos had me drinking a cracking 2009 Soho McQueen Pinot Noir ($24/glass); and knew only Dijon mustard would make the 4-Hour Wagyu Standing Rib ($42/300g) sing. The mustard incidentally is delivered by one staff member with almost as much pomp and ceremony as the wheeling of the wagyu trolley which greets you at your table as you peruse the menu. It's totally over-the-top in a Las Vegas sort of way - your anticipation makes it taste even better!
And yes, there were vegetables, namely a Roast Jerusalem Artitchoke Salad with Hazelnuts, Radicchio and divine Goat's Cheese ($9) which would have knocked my socks off if it hadn't been such a festival of meat. The Local and Italian Cabbage with Serrano Jamon and Poached Egg ($9) was also enjoyable.
Lured by a provocative description involving bondage and Nigella, I wrap things up with an exciting Lemon Curd Brûlée ($14) from bird in a cage (and pastry chef to watch) Brooke Queitzsch. (Her pastry kitchen is on-show to the dining room, so you can watch her work.)
Once you're well-watered, do check out the bathrooms. They have a curiously macabre set of door handles that make your eerie walk to the car through the Argyle Cut just that little bit more exciting. It pays not to forget Australians descended from murderers, rapists, and thieves! Bwah ha ha ha...
The Cut Bar & Grill
16 Argyle Street, The Rocks
Ph: (02) 9259 5695