The famous, warm Cauliflower Milkshake ($12) is served in a clear Perspex milk carton against a jamon toastie.
It’s been on the well-priced menu of this wide Pyrmont terrace since it opened in November 2010, near the end of the Sydney’s molecular gastronomy explosion.
Since then, public interest has drifted away from the laboratory and back towards simply pleasing the tastebuds; and this dish does just that.
New to the menu, Torched Ocean Trout, Ginger Salt, Orange and Ginger Gel ($15), pleases both the eye and the palate, though I’d like to see amped flavour in the gel. It’s particularly well matched to the 2009 Domaine de Belle-Vue Muscadet Sèvre et Maine ($39), an agreeable drop tasting of lemons, apple, minerals and stone.
It was also useful for stripping lamb fat off the tongue after a curiously disappointing Lamb Cigar with Tagine Spices, Labne, Tomato and Preserved Lemon ($18). It’d probably be better billed as a lamb sausage roll.
Interestingly, it’s two bang-on sides - Crispy Truffled Potatoes and Parmesan ($8) and a Rocket and Baby Cos Salad with Sweet and Sour Walnuts and Pecorino ($8) – that incline me to stay for a smile-inducing Fig Eton Mess with Salted Caramel Jelly ($14).
Okay, maybe the jellies can stay…
182 Harris Street, Pyrmont
Ph: (02) 9518 5025