Alex Harmon seems pretty enamoured with this new Bondi entry...
Skateboards on the roof, a DJ beside the sushi chef, purple mood lighting: if Bondi and Tokyo were Street Fighter characters, they’d end up on the same team.
Co-owner Phil Capaldi, in his Scottish accent teaches us Sake 101, matching it with food like a sommelier; and dazzling us with “Christmas cake tasting” sake, which shatters my Japanese businessmen cliché.
The theme here is fun, like Salmon Tartare Nachos ($16), sprinkled with salmon roe and scooped up with prawn crackers, or...
...Shitake Mushroom Skewers ($8.50) that glisten like adult Paddlepops.
Cocktails are sheepishly girly; the Tokyo Pop ($14) has a rim of pop rock candy and a fruity Pimms body – it's like a party in your mouth.
Standout dish is PaperPlanes Prawn Gyoza ($18), with wasabi peas and lemon wasabi foam - it’s got more high notes than drunken karaoke.
Spicy Tuna Sushi ($12) tastes as pretty as it looks and, like a cowboy, Phil sidles up to us with fresh wasabi root that he grates with shark skin.
If you’re not already swooning, try the Tokyo Pot Plant Lemon Cheesecake ($13), served in a terracotta pot. I love it when kitsch actually tastes delicious.
Let’s hope, like their aluminium origami, PaperPlanes stands the test of time.
Shop 15, 178 Campbell Parade, Bondi Beach
Ph: (02) 9356 8393