There’s something to be said for keeping the chef in your restaurant for long enough, so that diners get to experience the two working in total harmony. In the year since my last visit to this glittering poolside plinth, Anthony Redondi has certainly hit his stride.
You’ll see it in the confidently modern plating of his fresh, flavour-driven Italianate entrees. There’s Seared Bugs with Fennel and Lemon Risotto ($29) or, my preferred option...
...Seared Scallops ($27) tucked into an inky black bed of fregolone.
Now I could eat Prosciutto and Figs ($26) all day; regardless, it's a snazzy match with witlof, hazelnuts, Gorgonzola, white balsamic and mandarin mustard fruit.
Pan Seared Salmon ($36) was the surprising pick of the mains, mostly for a bold piece of cooking that staunchly resisted cremating it (despite diner request). Luckily it won her over to the rare side. The dish suits a gussied up copper pot of Roasted Cocktail Potatoes ($10), too.
Desserts have shrunk, and are all the better for it; believe me, I tried the whole menu (yes, with friends).
I couldn’t take my spoon out of the Meyer Lemon Cheesecake ($15), though there was a certain pleasure in clanking spoons in a sculptural glass of Cherrycoco ($16). Retro-heaven!
NOTE: See a previous review of this venue back HERE.
Corner Paul & Northcliff Streets, Milsons Point
Ph: (02) 9964 9998