On one of the most glorious days that ever had the hide to call itself winter, I headed to this heritage listed harbour-side hut.
They’re rapidly approaching their first quarter century, but have had a recent gust of fresh air through the kitchen, in the form of Head Chef Harry Stockdale-Powell (ex-Brass Bistro).
Before contemplating food, page through Barney Fallows’ award-winning wine list... I started in Austria with an easy-drinking 2010 Kurt Angerer ‘Kies’ Grüner Veltliner ($61/bottle). It suits shucked-to-order Natural Oysters ($28/dozen), local gems originating in the Hawkesbury and Port Stephens.
A starter of Western Australian Scallops with Pork Belly and Apple ($27) was pricy, but well cooked and cleanly plated.
Also visually pleasing were chef’s lightly battered (and earth-shatteringly crisp) crab and ricotta stuffed Zucchini Flowers ($19).
Luring me with a picturesque description Santorini’s traditional, basket-grown grapes, Fallows moved me on to a 2009 Domaine Sigalas ‘Santorini Assyrtico’ ($13/glass)...
...against textbook Cone Bay Barramundi ($36).
Well-handled fishes continue into the creamy Fish Pie ($28), made even better by an accompanying glass of the 2010 Benjamin Darnault Picpoul de Pinet ($10/glass), a minor component of Chateauneuf-du-Pape.
For dessert, sit on a plate of locally made Kakawa Chocolates ($14) and while away the rest of the afternoon…
The Sydney Cove Oyster Bar
No.1 East Circular Quay, Sydney
Ph: (02) 9247 2937