Whilst it might be called fusion or Pacific Rim, the menu here is really owner/chef Danny Parreno’s (ex-La Bodeguita Del Medio) life story in plates.
His grandfather moved to Peru as part of a wider wave of Japanese immigration.
This goes toward explaining the yuzu and yaki onigiri draped tender octopus tentacles in his Nisei ($15), one of five cebiche headlining his menu.
A sucker for citrus-marinated fishes, I tried three (and intend to return for the rest).
The wildest, A La Piedra ($16), arrives in a still-smouldering corn husk. It’s fish, mussels and calamari dotted with addictive cancha (meaty hunks of roasted Peruvian popcorn) and spiced with rocoto - an innocent-looking South American capsicum packing a feisty punch.
Resurrect your mouth with a frothy slurp of Pisco Sour ($17) before...
...Nipo-peruano (Japanese Peruvian) Sticky Duck, Roasted Coconut, Crispy Rice ($20) – exciting betel leaf-wrapped, two-bite explosions!
Weigh up Wagyu and Roasted Okra ($15) featuring another new chilli – aji amarillo – in a street-food anticucho sauce...
...against well-seasoned Chilean Sea Bass ($27) with golden scallops and yukka sauce.
Tequila Sorbet ($15) is Danny’s playful response to Peruvian cinema-goers preference for caramel corn.
He’s also handed his grower a missive of indigenous Peruvian ingredients so things are only going to get more exciting…
2/200 Goulburn Street, Surry Hills
Ph: (02) 9261 8799