MissDissent (missdissent) wrote,

Review - Devon Cafe

Continuing the exodus from fine dining to approachable eateries, two of Guillaume Brahimi’s chefs (Zacharay Tan and Jacqui Ektoros) have landed in this little café on Devonshire Street.

If the vibrant breakfast and lunch trade is any indication, Noni Widjaja’s decision to switch from an Indonesian restaurant (Padi) to an affordable eatery with fine dining values was right on the money!

While there are the usual hipster affectations – what with a hanging herb garden, and everything from the Refresher Juice ($7) with freshly squeezed watermelon, apple and mint, to the Iced Coffee ($6.50) served in jam jars – the coffee’s great and the food’s even better!

The confidently short seasonal menu offers up beautifully presented breakfast options, like Citrus Cured Salmon ($18.50) with apple, celery, fennel, split dill cream and brioche, crowned with a soft boiled egg...

...and My Second Asian Cousin ($12) – a nicely balanced bowl of tapioca and coconut, almonds, chia, poppy seeds and intriguing burnt citrus.

These creative combinations, which demonstrate a mastery of both European and Asian flavours and sensibilities, continue into the lunch menu with Green With Envy ($23) – a fat, log of nettle semolina gnocchi presented as a spring garden with pumpkin puree, zucchini, yellow squash and peas.

Even the muffins are amazing…

Devon Café
76 Devonshire Street, Surry Hills
Ph: (02) 9211 8777

Devon Cafe on Urbanspoon
Tags: food

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