The closure of Bistro Bruno has seen restaurateur Erez Gordon really focus his tender loving care upon his Crown Street star attraction.
With Chef Paul Cooper’s cooking already on point – my beloved Scallop Ceviche ($18) with cucumber, avocado, lemon and ginger beer sorbet thankfully remaining on his updated menu - Erez has directed his attention elsewhere.
Upstairs he’s added a wall-length, quintessentially Sydney (without being clichéd) cityscape by photographer Shane Rozario.
He’s also very invested in the floor, from explaining the whole-carcass, nose-to-tail philosophy, to constructing original cocktails, including the appetite-inducing Gin Yum ($17.50); described as “an Asian vacation” in a glass. However it’s in personalised wine service where Erez really shines; down to cheeky (verbal) descriptions of grapes being trampled “by unwed girls” where one can “taste the desperation”.
The 2008 Tibooburra Solitude Vineyard Pinot Noir ($77) over-delivered with a surprising floral, feminine edge against Roasted Aylesbury Duck Breast with ‘Ducketta’ ($33).
The best dish I ate - a truly unctuous jowl of Melanda Park pork with Hawkesbury River calamari and barbecued corn - can only be ordered via the outstanding value six-course Degustation ($69/head).
Chef brined the (already standout) pig for three days, rendering the fat into a beautiful, soft protein that sensuously echoed the tender, translucent calamari - sensational.
You can see a previous review of this restaurant HERE.
527 Crown Street, Surry Hills
Ph: (02) 8065 7223