Everything’s bigger out West. Candelori’s, situated in an unassuming strip of shops in Smithfield, is no exception.
Pushing open the enormous door, you enter a vast, 270-seater space that employs polished concrete pillar panels and floors to give a monumental feel that summons Utzon.
The menu and wine list are equally big. You’re offered five bruschette; and four carpaccio; each under their own menu sub-header.
Beef Carpaccio ($24) is classic: wafer thin sirloin, snap-fried capers, rocket, lemon juice, olive oil, shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano.
It’s eclipsed only when a skillet of the plumpest Baked Figs ($24) arrive, wrapped in prosciutto and oozing Gorgonzola.
They’re lewdly perfect, particularly with wine. A soft 2013 Il Conte ‘Navicchio Offida’ Pecorino DOCG ($14/glass) comes highly recommended by the fast-moving, black-clad floor team, led by Christian Candelori.
His dad is out the back making fresh pasta; on a Sunday. Ergo it’s a requirement; be it rustic, ribbon-cut egg Pappardelle ($28) with rich, chunky osso buco ragu, or...
...a paper-wrapped package of Squid Ink Tagliolini ($36) with scampi, scallops and the best-cooked baby calamari I’ve ever had.
Sitting back with a chilled glass of the on-tap, nutty Menabrea ($9), I feel mighty satisfied.
Be assured whatever desserts like Cassata Russolini ($18) lack in finesse, they make up for in largesse.
Stuff’s bigger out here.
Candelori’s Ristorante & Bar
685 The Horsley Drive, Smithfield
Ph: (02) 9729 1155