“When I was a kid, the first world aid concert was for Bangladesh. It seems weirdly, vicariously colonial to make it into a hipster street food outlet, and I’m absolutely sure they don't eat duck egg omelet with blue swimmer crab.”
My dining companion is somewhat harsh about the latest high concept ‘street food’ to hit Surry Hills, though celebrating people like Vasco da Gama, who ‘discovered’ occupied territories, on the menu does strike me as awkward. He’s employed to explain the Portuguese wine list; the 2013 Prova Regia Arinto, Bucelas ($14/$68) drinks well.
The Sylhet division of Bangladesh is prime tea growing country, explaining the presence of easy-drinking cocktails like gin-spiked Earl Grey ($16) and 9 Fruit Tea ($16).
Chef Tapos Singha, another export from the region, curries back favour with his Wagyu Tri-tip Curry ($32): tender hunks of flavoursome beef in a gravy made glossy by sweated onions, wrapped in fluffy Naan Bread ($6).
Delicate Cobia Tartare ($22) is a another winner, though slightly dominated by the accompanying tapioca pappadum.
If you were lured by the idea of simple street food dishes you eat with one hand, airy Fuska ($10) topped with shaved egg and tamarind water, and compelling dessert sticks of Mango Kulfi ($11) rolled in pistachio and white chocolate, will satisfy best.
Bang Street Food
3/410 Crown Street, Surry Hills
Ph: (02) 8354 1096