Emerging from the lift into this darkened space your eyes are instantly captivated by the panoramic city view.
Head Chef Darren Templeman has brought over much of what I loved from Restaurant Atelier, though his new iconic Harry Seidler-designed location means he’s obliged to paint with a broader brush.
Some dishes, like creamy Burata di Buffala ($29) simply play with expectations, substituting crisp chicken skin where you might expect crackers; while others...
...like House-made Soy Tofu ($30) with dashi spiked with aged Korean soy, are as gloriously uncompromising as ever.
Owner Michael Moore’s health focus has not been forgotten; it’s just been given a distinctively Templeman twist in delicate Pink Snapper Sashimi ($32) with torched avocado, finger lime and crisp tapioca...
...or lettuce boats of Rump Steak ‘Tartare’ ($35) topped with crunchy puffed tendon.
Darren’s favourite producers have also made the ascent.
Milly Hill Lamb Rump ($42) kicks it British yellow curry-style against sheep’s yoghurt, cumin, charred okra and surprising sprouted lentils.
Penrith’s Zokoko chocolate gets a look-in against an Atelier classic - the crowd-pleasing Hot Plum Souffle ($20).
In the hands of Head Bartender Andy Calderon, innovative cocktails like Pete the Peruvian ($18) & The Kingsford ($18) are in keeping with this high altitude location, as is warm, hospitable service from Restaurant Manager Thomas Philbin-Malucelli.
O Bar & Dining
Level 47, Australia Square, 264 George Street, Sydney
Ph: (02) 9247 9777