MissDissent (missdissent) wrote,
MissDissent
missdissent

Review - The Devonshire




Affable Restaurant Manager Craig McCall tells me to think of this spot as my “neighbourhood fine diner”.



And, after I finish scraping the last skerrick of Devonshire Crème Brulee ($16) with scone ice cream and decadent cherry jam, out of the dainty teacup, I muse he’s exactly right.



From the first glistening pat of their famous honey-butter, which adds complexity without too much sweetness to your warm bread roll, to the aforementioned dessert, the food and service here makes you feel right at home.



In the dining room, white tablecloths are offset with nicely worn bistro-style chairs. The wall of mismatched mirrors continues (in a miniaturised form) in their hat-worthy bathroom, stocked with L’Occitane products.



Owner/head chef Jeremy Bentley creates dishes that are highly worked without being challenging. Moist Smoked Pork Belly ($25) squares are accompanied by pig’s tail, boiled in stock and soy, then crumbed and fried, and balanced by pickled cabbage.



Golden-crumbed blocks of pressed lamb shoulder add texture to Slow Cooked Lamb Rump ($37) with eggplant caviar.



Bannockburn Chicken Breast and Pot Roast Leg ($37) hide under crunchy chicken skin, managing to be comforting without being daggy. It’s great against a lean but likeable 2014 Rob Hall Chardonnay ($54).



Shave down the prices by booking a 6pm sitting on their two-course Pre-Theatre Menu ($49/head).

The Devonshire
204 Devonshire Street, Surry Hills
Ph: (02) 9698 9427


Click to add a blog post for The Devonshire on Zomato
Tags: food, wine
Subscribe

Recent Posts from This Journal

  • Food News - Fancy A Quickie?

    This week Porkstar launched another of their slightly risqué campaigns designed to get you thinking about a mid-week pork (meal) at a…

  • Review - Bibimbar

    With the addition of a few bright menu boards depicting colourful Korean soul food, like the wartime hangover favourite, Korean army stew,…

  • Review - My Lua

    My Lua occupies an interstitial space between towering office blocks. The all-day café is owned by Candice Anh Nguyet who immigrated…

  • Post a new comment

    Error

    Anonymous comments are disabled in this journal

    default userpic

    Your reply will be screened

    Your IP address will be recorded 

  • 0 comments